Bundaberg

Port Bundaberg
The last night we sailed along at 8-9kn with the tide that held out till midnight before dying off. The boat slowed to 7-7.5kn and we were heading for an early arrival. Our ETA was lunch or just after but with 12hrs at full tilt we arrived at the outer harbour marks at 6.00am. By seven we were anchored at the quarantine area near the marina. We had company for the night as well, as two hitch-hikers (booby's) sat on the spin pole all night and only left as we turned to enter port. They had covered some sixty miles with us so we hope that they were happy with our destination. Of course they paid for their passage by leaving plenty of poop all over the pole and foredeck. At 8am we moved onto the quarantine dock where we were cleared to enter Australia. It all went very well and our officers on board were polite and friendly and helpful in answering our many questions. We then move into another berth in the marina. It is hot here and we have plenty to do. We are also looking forward to getting into town and buying the odd things that we have not managed to get for some time. We hope that you have enjoyed all of our trip with us so far. We do not know what's next, but that's the joy of cruising. If we leave here and head off somewhere else we will let you know... but for now that's it.

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Bundaberg tomorrow

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia
06h00 UTC 7 November
Course: 222 °
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 171nm
Distance to Bundaberg: 84nm
Position 23°54' S 153°41' E

All's well on board.

What a trip it has been so far. We have made very good time and have had pleasant weather. At the moment we have the wind on the beam and we have been averaging 8+kn for the last four hours. We will be getting into the Port of Bundaberg around mid morning tomorrow. There are a few boats arriving tomorrow and even more on Wednesday. There are many yachts scheduled to arrive this week. I guess that it will be party time in Bundy all week. Many have been waiting for a weather window and then leave together which does create little flotillas from ports where one holes up.
We have very mixed feelings about getting in tomorrow... besides customs etc.... as this ends this amazing trip that has taken us halfway around the world on Papillon and has dished up some totally fantastic experiences. Today was our last blue water day (for a while) as tomorrow we will be in at the coast. We should pass the tip of Frazer Island in about six hour and enter Hervey Bay, but then there is the other side of all the new opportunities that beckon us onward to meet new challenges. Is it all so fantastic!!!!!!!!

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Good ride to Bunderberg

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia
11h00 UTC 6 November
Course: 222 °
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 172nm
Distance to Bundaberg: 240nm
Position 22°23' S 155°49' E

All's well on board.

The exit through the reef went well as we followed Nine of Cups the other yacht that was at the reef with us. The wind on the outside was 12-15kn and once we were settled in with all the sails set we rolled along at 7-8kn. We reefed down for the night but the wind came up so it made very little difference to our speed. Having put 172 miles in the bag so far we should reach Bundaberg on Tuesday should we maintain our 5-6 kn. The winds look as if they will hold. At the moment the wind is on the beam and we are hoping that the grib files are correct and that the wind will turn more easterly overnight. The seas have been a little bumpy since last night and we really got the salad treatment... so we move onto the floor at the mast to sleep. So far that's worked well. Time to go... till later

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Chesterfield Reef to Bunderberg

Hi again its Friday and our last day in this wonderful paradise. Tomorrow we will be leaving for Bunderberg with another yacht "Nine of Cups". The weather looks as if it should be good for the 440nm we still have to go. All going well we should arrive late on Tuesday or slow down a little if we are not going to get in before dark should the winds be lighter that predicted and arrive on Wednesday morning. Once we clear customs we will either anchor in the river or take a berth in the marina if there is one available. Last time we were in a marina is when we arrived in St Lucia almost two years ago. So the last leg ... we will update you as we go.

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Chesterfield Reef the place to see

We are so pleased that we decided to make Chesterfield Reef one of our stops. The sun is setting on our fifth day of another great experience. It may get dark now but life keeps going on the islands that are like a chain all along the eastern side (Way off to the west on the other side you again have a number of cays that you can just see from here). Soon the turtles will be heading for the shores to dig their massive holes and lay their eggs. For some this takes all night and you can see odd ones still heading down the beach in the early morning totally exhausted. The birds keep calling all night and the sky is full of birds feeding at night with the odd ones stopping for a rest on the boat.
As you go ashore through the rocks and coral in the shallows that guard the beach in an array of blue hues one is confronted by hundreds of airborne birds circling over the island. Stepping onto the white sand one stops immediately to pick up a beautiful shell or two. At the top of the beach every bush has a few nestlings, from Boobies to the Lesser Frigate birds, a variety of Terns and Dotterels... the list goes on. The Gannets seem to pull up on any part of the beach, some barely above the high tide mark and lay their two eggs. As you walk past they watch you and once you have passed give you a skwaak almost to say: "that's it keep moving..." It's just bird's birds everywhere. The rock pools are full of fish and the occasional little black tip reef shark. The eels hide amongst the rocks and some even slither out on top of the rocks. The crabs are colourful and some fairly bold and other very happy to head for the holes in the rocks to sit and watch you go by. We found some hermit crabs in shells that were twice the size of a golf ball and looked like they needed to trade up to an even bigger home. It is just wonderful. The whales are still here and there were 2-3 just out from where we anchored earlier this afternoon. They have been hanging around here for the last few days.
The fishing has been good and we have been feasting on mackerel, but have caught large Cod, Queen Fish, Giant Trevally and a few large ones that went the other way, but shook the lure out. We stick to eating the pelagic fish as they would be less likely to be carrying Ciguatera poison.
The weather here has been good and the weather for heading to Bunderberg looks as if it will dislodge us from this wonderful place on Saturday. It will be sad to go but the experience we have had here will always be remembered. For a true natural experience this must rate as the highlight of our trip... What a way to finish. We should be on a high all the way to Bunderberg.

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Chesterfield Reef

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia via Chesterfield Reef
04h30 UTC 29 October
Course: °
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 169nm
Distance to Chesterfield: 0 nm
Position 19°52' S 158°27' E Anchored
All's well on board.

Another good run and we got to the Reef at around 13h00 (02h00 UTC/GMT). We approached our waypoint for entering the reef and there was nothing to see. Shortly afterwards the depth meter registered the bottom and it zoomed from 180m to 28m all in a short distance. At least we knew we had arrived even though we saw nothing. Only after motor sailing in another 4-5 miles did we finally see any of the islands. They are very flat and only raise a few meters above sea level. We finally motored upwind to the anchorage all in deep water 30-40m and only a few bombies once we reached the shallower water where we anchored.. There is one other boat here and we anchored about 100m behind them. It is a choppy anchorage as the wind (SE) is blowing parallel to the islands and has a fairly long fetch. We pitched the pick over the side in about 9-10m with plenty of chain. The bottom is sandy as are the islands and we seem to have good holding here. We may dump the dinghy over the side later on especially if the wind dies down a little. The islands are loaded with birds and by this evening when all those who are out at sea feeding return it will be quite spectacular. Tomorrow we will definitely go and explore. Right now time to catch up on some rest. Till next time

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Nearing Chesterfield Reef

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia via Chesterfield Reef
02h00 UTC 28 October
Course: 246°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 135nm
Distance to Chesterfield: 127 nm(at 07h30 utc)
Position 19°15' S 160°28' E
All's well on board.

We have had a good days sailing and are trying to keep our speed up to 6kn so that we will arrive tomorrow afternoon at Chesterfield Reef. We do not want to be too late as we have 7nm to negotiate along the inside of the reef to the anchorage. The wind has strengthened a little but has gone more to the south making it a close reach and a little bumpy. If necessary we will motor to keep up our speed if the wind drops. It would be nice if it were to go a little more to the east.
Otherwise all's going well

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Halfway to Chesterfield Reef

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia via Chesterfield Reef
02h00 UTC 27 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 141nm
Distance to Chesterfield: 296 nm
Position 18°40' S 163°22' E
All's well on board.

We left Port Vila on a beautiful morning and a good breeze. Once out in the open ocean we have had a 2m swell/chop with the winds varying a little but mostly behind us from the east. At times we have sailed at 7-8kns and then the wind goes light again and we drop off to 4-5kn. At the moment we are passing through "Grand Passage" to the north of New Caledonia, which also marks our halfway point to Chesterfield reef. The sea is supposed to flatten off a little as we get out on the other side for a short while before a southerly swell pushes into the area for the next few days. We are looking forward to Chesterfield Reef as we have received some lovely feedback on the birdlife there. The actual islands are small compared to the reef system, but there is a good anchorage near one of these islands. There is a weather station on the one island but otherwise the islands are deserted. The plan is to stay for 3-4 days and then leave - as long as we have a good weather window - for our last leg to Bunderberg that is 440 nm further west.
Here is a story for you as found on the notice board at the Royal Suva Yacht Club and corrupted by my memory....
These two sharks are swimming along and come across some survivors of a ship that sunk. The younger shark wants to rush in and grab a feed but his dad holds him back and tells him not to rush. First we swim around them a few times with our fins just showing he tells his son. Then we swim around them with all of our fins showing. After we have done that we will rush in and eat them all. The little shark still looking a little confused wanted to know why he could not just rush straight in. Ah said his father.... they taste much better with no shit inside!!!
With that we will say bye till next time

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THe last leg to Australia

It's time to move on again, sadly for the last time on this trip as we head off to Australia tomorrow(Tuesday). With the cyclone season peeping around the corner it's time to run and hide somewhere further south. We have thoroughly enjoyed Port Vila as well as our trip around the west coast of the island. The people have been great and the bays and anchorages quiet and secure. Even the fishing here has been good. We have 580nm to Chesterfield reef and should be there in five days. We will stay there for a few days and do the last 440nm as soon as we get a good window to do so. The winds and seas seem reasonably good for this passage but we have found that what you see on the gribs can be far from what we get.
So we will write again soon as we run down to the top of New Caledonia and through the Grand Passage. Till then...

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Port Vila (on the island of Efate); Vanuatu

We have arrived in the lovely little port of Port Vila in Vanuatu. We had the bio security official come out to us and give us our clearance to go ashore and to complete Immigration and customs. However, we will go back to yesterday... after a night of motoring we started sailing and the wind built up slowly. After leaving such a stinky carbon footprint in our wake the wind decided to do some cleaning out and blow it away. We had the wind on the beam and reached all afternoon and night at 7-8kn. Talk about making up time! Needless to say by nightfall we were having a wild theme park ride so we move a mattress back to the floor near the mast to find a little less motion and hopefully some sleep. Early dawn showed the outline of Efate on our starboard side and the moon setting on the bow... pretty cool... as we surfed along. We lost a big fish when the boat rounded up while Colin was just starting to get some line back. As the boat went about we wrapped the line around the bow. Sadly the prop had the last word by cutting the line and the fish lived for another day. Hey, but the beef on the islands is supposed to be the best in the Pacific... hopefully we will get some as most of it is exported to Japan. So by 09:00 we were anchored in the Quarantine area and ashore for lunch. The town is very nice and there is plenty to see and do. So a few days here and around the island, mostly the west and north west coast and then back here to wait for a good weather window... or maybe just go as it does not seem to make much difference. So till later...

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Better winds

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Port Vila; Vanuatu
16h30 UTC 13 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 24h00 GMT: 124nm
Distance to Suva: 131 nm
Position 17°58' S 170°23' E
All's well on board.

Talk about leaving a large carbon footprint in the middle of the ocean. In the last 24hrs the wind did not fill in until this morning so we motored all night. The sea was like glass and we only had a little drizzle and a full moon so it was a pleasant watch for the whole night. This must be the most diesel that we have used on one passage so far in the Pacific. Early this morning the wind filled in from the south and we managed 2-3 kn for about two hours until the wind picked up to around 12 kn. We are on a broad reach and making between 6-8kn. If this wind holds... please, please, please! then we should get in tomorrow at lunch time. Customs etc close at four and only open again on Monday so we really need to get signed in. Decided to try for some fish for supper so we dropped a line in and lost one and got one all within an hour. It was a small skipjack just perfect for two. Tomorrow well will try again and as we are heading to port will take what comes along... it's nice to share with others sitting on anchor.
So here's hoping the weather stays as it is, the gribs say it will turn a little more to the east, but that's fine. Till next time...

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Heading for Vanuatu slowly

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Port Vila; Vanuatu
16h30 UTC 12 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 23h00 GMT: 81nm
Distance to Suva: 259 nm
Position 18°15' S 172°35' E
All's well on board.

Planning for a trip... well at least looking for the best option for it. We tried our best BUT... Well we have had it all. We were going to leave on the Thursday but a weather system moved down from the north and cancelled that. So being a weekend with a holiday attached on Monday we decided to finally sign out but did not leave as we waited for a better weather window and left on the Sunday. It rained a little on the way out but the evening was pleasant and the wind light until we finally cranked up the diesel sail and motored through to the morning. At eight it all began to change with a northerly wind that would wind up to gale force (force7/35kn). The seas climbed to 3-4m and were very steep and breaking. With wet deck we ploughed on and by three it started to subside and we had a pleasant night doing 2-3 knots in a steady north wind of 5-8kn. Yesterday morning was like glass and later we had some rain squalls (tons of water) with winds from the west... guess which way we are going... but again had a pleasant night. Today it started off with no wind and then we had the wind turn 180deg and blast us from the south at 20kn. And has now settled to a light wind from the ENE. We were hoping to get in on Thursday but it looks like we will be lucky to get there by Friday and it's more likely that we will arrive on Saturday to Port Vila. Some of this weather was on the cards but it has been frustrating trying to point the boat in the right direction and keep it moving. Otherwise life goes on, looking at places still to visit, books to be read and food to be done.... till next time.....

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Heading for Vanuatu slowly

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Port Vila; Vanuatu
16h30 UTC 12 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 23h00 GMT: 81nm
Distance to Suva: 259 nm
Position 18°15' S 172°35' E
All's well on board.

Planning for a trip... well at least looking for the best option for it. We tried our best BUT... Well we have had it all. We were going to leave on the Thursday but a weather system moved down from the north and cancelled that. So being a weekend with a holiday attached on Monday we decided to finally sign out but did not leave as we waited for a better weather window and left on the Sunday. It rained a little on the way out but the evening was pleasant and the wind light until we finally cranked up the diesel sail and motored through to the morning. At eight it all began to change with a northerly wind that would wind up to gale force (force7/35kn). The seas climbed to 3-4m and were very steep and breaking. With wet deck we ploughed on and by three it started to subside and we had a pleasant night doing 2-3 knots in a steady north wind of 5-8kn. Yesterday morning was like glass and later we had some rain squalls (tons of water) with winds from the west... guess which way we are going... but again had a pleasant night. Today it started off with no wind and then we had the wind turn 180deg and blast us from the south at 20kn. And has now settled to a light wind from the ENE. We were hoping to get in on Thursday but it looks like we will be lucky to get there by Friday and it's more likely that we will arrive on Saturday to Port Vila. Some of this weather was on the cards but it has been frustrating trying to point the boat in the right direction and keep it moving. Otherwise life goes on, looking at places still to visit, books to be read and food to be done.... till next time

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Heading for Vanuatu

Time to move on. We have had a good but wet stay in Suva and leave today for Vanuatu. It is a pity that we have so little time left as it is already the 9th of October. The weather ahead for the next few days is varied with heavy showers and light winds. The grib files change by the day so who knows what we will get. It's just less than 600 miles to Port Vila and we are hoping to get there by Friday. There are still so many places to go to but we have to cut them out of our schedule as we stay longer somewhere else. We have booked into the marina at Mooloolaba from the first of December and will more than likely leave Bunderberg around the 20th November and head down via Tin Can Bay where we spend some time before the trip down to Mooloolaba. We are still planning to arrive around the 7th November in Bunderberg. So that's the basic plan and we will fill in the details as we go.

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Arrived... Suva; Fiji

Suva Fiji
After a slow day with the wind on the nose it finally relented and moved back to the south. We had a very calm night with enough wind to keep up four knots which is all we needed to arrive here in the morning. All night we had the glow of Suva on the bow. There are extensive reefs around Suva and approaching as it got light was just perfect. We took a few fixes to check the accuracy of the charts and were happy with following our electronic charts in. It always seems far more difficult when looking at the approach on the charts, but once you get there it always seems a lot easier than one presumed. We anchored near the Royal Suva Yacht Club and cleared in with the port captain who told us to contact the yacht club to complete customs etc. We called them on the radio and they said we could check in and pay or wait until tomorrow ... so here we are relaxing and sleeping our day away.
The harbour inside was filthy with tons of oil on the surface as well as general rubbish. There goes our nice clean hull. The harbour is filled with deep sea fishing boats rafted together. These are all long line fishing boats that are stripping the pacific of its pelagic fish. The other thing one notices is that they all have Chinese flags off the stern. All around the pacific the Chinese are taking over putting some money into the country for basic development and then collect all the fishing grants etc and clean out their natural resources. Since arriving we have seen a few of the boats rafted near us dumping their rubbish over the side. It's no wonder that the harbour looks as it does.
On a lighter note while Colin was on watch a bird crashed on deck. Shining a light in its direction he found a rather dazed Bird of Paradise with its squid lying on the deck and it stumbling around a little stunned. It did not have much room to take off so flapped around helplessly. Fortunately it flapped down the side past the cockpit where Colin got hold of it. After trying to calm it he was going to launch it, when it latched onto his finger with amazing power for such a small bird. The beak is serrated to grip squid which are extremely slippery from the surface of the water. It took a while for Colin to pry its beak open and launch it skywards in the dark where it found its wings and got going.
So tomorrow we sign in and will head into town to explore. From the water the town has many new and modern looking buildings. Apparently the shops are also well stocked. There are a few things that we need so hopefully they will be available here. Our last shop was in Tahiti almost two months ago.

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