Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Bundaberg

Port Bundaberg
The last night we sailed along at 8-9kn with the tide that held out till midnight before dying off. The boat slowed to 7-7.5kn and we were heading for an early arrival. Our ETA was lunch or just after but with 12hrs at full tilt we arrived at the outer harbour marks at 6.00am. By seven we were anchored at the quarantine area near the marina. We had company for the night as well, as two hitch-hikers (booby's) sat on the spin pole all night and only left as we turned to enter port. They had covered some sixty miles with us so we hope that they were happy with our destination. Of course they paid for their passage by leaving plenty of poop all over the pole and foredeck. At 8am we moved onto the quarantine dock where we were cleared to enter Australia. It all went very well and our officers on board were polite and friendly and helpful in answering our many questions. We then move into another berth in the marina. It is hot here and we have plenty to do. We are also looking forward to getting into town and buying the odd things that we have not managed to get for some time. We hope that you have enjoyed all of our trip with us so far. We do not know what's next, but that's the joy of cruising. If we leave here and head off somewhere else we will let you know... but for now that's it.

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Monday, November 7, 2011

Bundaberg tomorrow

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia
06h00 UTC 7 November
Course: 222 °
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 171nm
Distance to Bundaberg: 84nm
Position 23°54' S 153°41' E

All's well on board.

What a trip it has been so far. We have made very good time and have had pleasant weather. At the moment we have the wind on the beam and we have been averaging 8+kn for the last four hours. We will be getting into the Port of Bundaberg around mid morning tomorrow. There are a few boats arriving tomorrow and even more on Wednesday. There are many yachts scheduled to arrive this week. I guess that it will be party time in Bundy all week. Many have been waiting for a weather window and then leave together which does create little flotillas from ports where one holes up.
We have very mixed feelings about getting in tomorrow... besides customs etc.... as this ends this amazing trip that has taken us halfway around the world on Papillon and has dished up some totally fantastic experiences. Today was our last blue water day (for a while) as tomorrow we will be in at the coast. We should pass the tip of Frazer Island in about six hour and enter Hervey Bay, but then there is the other side of all the new opportunities that beckon us onward to meet new challenges. Is it all so fantastic!!!!!!!!

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Sunday, November 6, 2011

Good ride to Bunderberg

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia
11h00 UTC 6 November
Course: 222 °
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 172nm
Distance to Bundaberg: 240nm
Position 22°23' S 155°49' E

All's well on board.

The exit through the reef went well as we followed Nine of Cups the other yacht that was at the reef with us. The wind on the outside was 12-15kn and once we were settled in with all the sails set we rolled along at 7-8kn. We reefed down for the night but the wind came up so it made very little difference to our speed. Having put 172 miles in the bag so far we should reach Bundaberg on Tuesday should we maintain our 5-6 kn. The winds look as if they will hold. At the moment the wind is on the beam and we are hoping that the grib files are correct and that the wind will turn more easterly overnight. The seas have been a little bumpy since last night and we really got the salad treatment... so we move onto the floor at the mast to sleep. So far that's worked well. Time to go... till later

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Thursday, November 3, 2011

Chesterfield Reef to Bunderberg

Hi again its Friday and our last day in this wonderful paradise. Tomorrow we will be leaving for Bunderberg with another yacht "Nine of Cups". The weather looks as if it should be good for the 440nm we still have to go. All going well we should arrive late on Tuesday or slow down a little if we are not going to get in before dark should the winds be lighter that predicted and arrive on Wednesday morning. Once we clear customs we will either anchor in the river or take a berth in the marina if there is one available. Last time we were in a marina is when we arrived in St Lucia almost two years ago. So the last leg ... we will update you as we go.

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Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Chesterfield Reef the place to see

We are so pleased that we decided to make Chesterfield Reef one of our stops. The sun is setting on our fifth day of another great experience. It may get dark now but life keeps going on the islands that are like a chain all along the eastern side (Way off to the west on the other side you again have a number of cays that you can just see from here). Soon the turtles will be heading for the shores to dig their massive holes and lay their eggs. For some this takes all night and you can see odd ones still heading down the beach in the early morning totally exhausted. The birds keep calling all night and the sky is full of birds feeding at night with the odd ones stopping for a rest on the boat.
As you go ashore through the rocks and coral in the shallows that guard the beach in an array of blue hues one is confronted by hundreds of airborne birds circling over the island. Stepping onto the white sand one stops immediately to pick up a beautiful shell or two. At the top of the beach every bush has a few nestlings, from Boobies to the Lesser Frigate birds, a variety of Terns and Dotterels... the list goes on. The Gannets seem to pull up on any part of the beach, some barely above the high tide mark and lay their two eggs. As you walk past they watch you and once you have passed give you a skwaak almost to say: "that's it keep moving..." It's just bird's birds everywhere. The rock pools are full of fish and the occasional little black tip reef shark. The eels hide amongst the rocks and some even slither out on top of the rocks. The crabs are colourful and some fairly bold and other very happy to head for the holes in the rocks to sit and watch you go by. We found some hermit crabs in shells that were twice the size of a golf ball and looked like they needed to trade up to an even bigger home. It is just wonderful. The whales are still here and there were 2-3 just out from where we anchored earlier this afternoon. They have been hanging around here for the last few days.
The fishing has been good and we have been feasting on mackerel, but have caught large Cod, Queen Fish, Giant Trevally and a few large ones that went the other way, but shook the lure out. We stick to eating the pelagic fish as they would be less likely to be carrying Ciguatera poison.
The weather here has been good and the weather for heading to Bunderberg looks as if it will dislodge us from this wonderful place on Saturday. It will be sad to go but the experience we have had here will always be remembered. For a true natural experience this must rate as the highlight of our trip... What a way to finish. We should be on a high all the way to Bunderberg.

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Saturday, October 29, 2011

Chesterfield Reef

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia via Chesterfield Reef
04h30 UTC 29 October
Course: °
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 169nm
Distance to Chesterfield: 0 nm
Position 19°52' S 158°27' E Anchored
All's well on board.

Another good run and we got to the Reef at around 13h00 (02h00 UTC/GMT). We approached our waypoint for entering the reef and there was nothing to see. Shortly afterwards the depth meter registered the bottom and it zoomed from 180m to 28m all in a short distance. At least we knew we had arrived even though we saw nothing. Only after motor sailing in another 4-5 miles did we finally see any of the islands. They are very flat and only raise a few meters above sea level. We finally motored upwind to the anchorage all in deep water 30-40m and only a few bombies once we reached the shallower water where we anchored.. There is one other boat here and we anchored about 100m behind them. It is a choppy anchorage as the wind (SE) is blowing parallel to the islands and has a fairly long fetch. We pitched the pick over the side in about 9-10m with plenty of chain. The bottom is sandy as are the islands and we seem to have good holding here. We may dump the dinghy over the side later on especially if the wind dies down a little. The islands are loaded with birds and by this evening when all those who are out at sea feeding return it will be quite spectacular. Tomorrow we will definitely go and explore. Right now time to catch up on some rest. Till next time

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Friday, October 28, 2011

Nearing Chesterfield Reef

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia via Chesterfield Reef
02h00 UTC 28 October
Course: 246°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 135nm
Distance to Chesterfield: 127 nm(at 07h30 utc)
Position 19°15' S 160°28' E
All's well on board.

We have had a good days sailing and are trying to keep our speed up to 6kn so that we will arrive tomorrow afternoon at Chesterfield Reef. We do not want to be too late as we have 7nm to negotiate along the inside of the reef to the anchorage. The wind has strengthened a little but has gone more to the south making it a close reach and a little bumpy. If necessary we will motor to keep up our speed if the wind drops. It would be nice if it were to go a little more to the east.
Otherwise all's going well

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Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Halfway to Chesterfield Reef

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Australia via Chesterfield Reef
02h00 UTC 27 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 01h00 GMT: 141nm
Distance to Chesterfield: 296 nm
Position 18°40' S 163°22' E
All's well on board.

We left Port Vila on a beautiful morning and a good breeze. Once out in the open ocean we have had a 2m swell/chop with the winds varying a little but mostly behind us from the east. At times we have sailed at 7-8kns and then the wind goes light again and we drop off to 4-5kn. At the moment we are passing through "Grand Passage" to the north of New Caledonia, which also marks our halfway point to Chesterfield reef. The sea is supposed to flatten off a little as we get out on the other side for a short while before a southerly swell pushes into the area for the next few days. We are looking forward to Chesterfield Reef as we have received some lovely feedback on the birdlife there. The actual islands are small compared to the reef system, but there is a good anchorage near one of these islands. There is a weather station on the one island but otherwise the islands are deserted. The plan is to stay for 3-4 days and then leave - as long as we have a good weather window - for our last leg to Bunderberg that is 440 nm further west.
Here is a story for you as found on the notice board at the Royal Suva Yacht Club and corrupted by my memory....
These two sharks are swimming along and come across some survivors of a ship that sunk. The younger shark wants to rush in and grab a feed but his dad holds him back and tells him not to rush. First we swim around them a few times with our fins just showing he tells his son. Then we swim around them with all of our fins showing. After we have done that we will rush in and eat them all. The little shark still looking a little confused wanted to know why he could not just rush straight in. Ah said his father.... they taste much better with no shit inside!!!
With that we will say bye till next time

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Monday, October 24, 2011

THe last leg to Australia

It's time to move on again, sadly for the last time on this trip as we head off to Australia tomorrow(Tuesday). With the cyclone season peeping around the corner it's time to run and hide somewhere further south. We have thoroughly enjoyed Port Vila as well as our trip around the west coast of the island. The people have been great and the bays and anchorages quiet and secure. Even the fishing here has been good. We have 580nm to Chesterfield reef and should be there in five days. We will stay there for a few days and do the last 440nm as soon as we get a good window to do so. The winds and seas seem reasonably good for this passage but we have found that what you see on the gribs can be far from what we get.
So we will write again soon as we run down to the top of New Caledonia and through the Grand Passage. Till then...

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Friday, October 14, 2011

Port Vila (on the island of Efate); Vanuatu

We have arrived in the lovely little port of Port Vila in Vanuatu. We had the bio security official come out to us and give us our clearance to go ashore and to complete Immigration and customs. However, we will go back to yesterday... after a night of motoring we started sailing and the wind built up slowly. After leaving such a stinky carbon footprint in our wake the wind decided to do some cleaning out and blow it away. We had the wind on the beam and reached all afternoon and night at 7-8kn. Talk about making up time! Needless to say by nightfall we were having a wild theme park ride so we move a mattress back to the floor near the mast to find a little less motion and hopefully some sleep. Early dawn showed the outline of Efate on our starboard side and the moon setting on the bow... pretty cool... as we surfed along. We lost a big fish when the boat rounded up while Colin was just starting to get some line back. As the boat went about we wrapped the line around the bow. Sadly the prop had the last word by cutting the line and the fish lived for another day. Hey, but the beef on the islands is supposed to be the best in the Pacific... hopefully we will get some as most of it is exported to Japan. So by 09:00 we were anchored in the Quarantine area and ashore for lunch. The town is very nice and there is plenty to see and do. So a few days here and around the island, mostly the west and north west coast and then back here to wait for a good weather window... or maybe just go as it does not seem to make much difference. So till later...

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Thursday, October 13, 2011

Better winds

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Port Vila; Vanuatu
16h30 UTC 13 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 24h00 GMT: 124nm
Distance to Suva: 131 nm
Position 17°58' S 170°23' E
All's well on board.

Talk about leaving a large carbon footprint in the middle of the ocean. In the last 24hrs the wind did not fill in until this morning so we motored all night. The sea was like glass and we only had a little drizzle and a full moon so it was a pleasant watch for the whole night. This must be the most diesel that we have used on one passage so far in the Pacific. Early this morning the wind filled in from the south and we managed 2-3 kn for about two hours until the wind picked up to around 12 kn. We are on a broad reach and making between 6-8kn. If this wind holds... please, please, please! then we should get in tomorrow at lunch time. Customs etc close at four and only open again on Monday so we really need to get signed in. Decided to try for some fish for supper so we dropped a line in and lost one and got one all within an hour. It was a small skipjack just perfect for two. Tomorrow well will try again and as we are heading to port will take what comes along... it's nice to share with others sitting on anchor.
So here's hoping the weather stays as it is, the gribs say it will turn a little more to the east, but that's fine. Till next time...

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Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Heading for Vanuatu slowly

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Port Vila; Vanuatu
16h30 UTC 12 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 23h00 GMT: 81nm
Distance to Suva: 259 nm
Position 18°15' S 172°35' E
All's well on board.

Planning for a trip... well at least looking for the best option for it. We tried our best BUT... Well we have had it all. We were going to leave on the Thursday but a weather system moved down from the north and cancelled that. So being a weekend with a holiday attached on Monday we decided to finally sign out but did not leave as we waited for a better weather window and left on the Sunday. It rained a little on the way out but the evening was pleasant and the wind light until we finally cranked up the diesel sail and motored through to the morning. At eight it all began to change with a northerly wind that would wind up to gale force (force7/35kn). The seas climbed to 3-4m and were very steep and breaking. With wet deck we ploughed on and by three it started to subside and we had a pleasant night doing 2-3 knots in a steady north wind of 5-8kn. Yesterday morning was like glass and later we had some rain squalls (tons of water) with winds from the west... guess which way we are going... but again had a pleasant night. Today it started off with no wind and then we had the wind turn 180deg and blast us from the south at 20kn. And has now settled to a light wind from the ENE. We were hoping to get in on Thursday but it looks like we will be lucky to get there by Friday and it's more likely that we will arrive on Saturday to Port Vila. Some of this weather was on the cards but it has been frustrating trying to point the boat in the right direction and keep it moving. Otherwise life goes on, looking at places still to visit, books to be read and food to be done.... till next time.....

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Heading for Vanuatu slowly

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Port Vila; Vanuatu
16h30 UTC 12 October
Course: 262°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 23h00 GMT: 81nm
Distance to Suva: 259 nm
Position 18°15' S 172°35' E
All's well on board.

Planning for a trip... well at least looking for the best option for it. We tried our best BUT... Well we have had it all. We were going to leave on the Thursday but a weather system moved down from the north and cancelled that. So being a weekend with a holiday attached on Monday we decided to finally sign out but did not leave as we waited for a better weather window and left on the Sunday. It rained a little on the way out but the evening was pleasant and the wind light until we finally cranked up the diesel sail and motored through to the morning. At eight it all began to change with a northerly wind that would wind up to gale force (force7/35kn). The seas climbed to 3-4m and were very steep and breaking. With wet deck we ploughed on and by three it started to subside and we had a pleasant night doing 2-3 knots in a steady north wind of 5-8kn. Yesterday morning was like glass and later we had some rain squalls (tons of water) with winds from the west... guess which way we are going... but again had a pleasant night. Today it started off with no wind and then we had the wind turn 180deg and blast us from the south at 20kn. And has now settled to a light wind from the ENE. We were hoping to get in on Thursday but it looks like we will be lucky to get there by Friday and it's more likely that we will arrive on Saturday to Port Vila. Some of this weather was on the cards but it has been frustrating trying to point the boat in the right direction and keep it moving. Otherwise life goes on, looking at places still to visit, books to be read and food to be done.... till next time

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Sunday, October 9, 2011

Heading for Vanuatu

Time to move on. We have had a good but wet stay in Suva and leave today for Vanuatu. It is a pity that we have so little time left as it is already the 9th of October. The weather ahead for the next few days is varied with heavy showers and light winds. The grib files change by the day so who knows what we will get. It's just less than 600 miles to Port Vila and we are hoping to get there by Friday. There are still so many places to go to but we have to cut them out of our schedule as we stay longer somewhere else. We have booked into the marina at Mooloolaba from the first of December and will more than likely leave Bunderberg around the 20th November and head down via Tin Can Bay where we spend some time before the trip down to Mooloolaba. We are still planning to arrive around the 7th November in Bunderberg. So that's the basic plan and we will fill in the details as we go.

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Monday, September 26, 2011

Arrived... Suva; Fiji

Suva Fiji
After a slow day with the wind on the nose it finally relented and moved back to the south. We had a very calm night with enough wind to keep up four knots which is all we needed to arrive here in the morning. All night we had the glow of Suva on the bow. There are extensive reefs around Suva and approaching as it got light was just perfect. We took a few fixes to check the accuracy of the charts and were happy with following our electronic charts in. It always seems far more difficult when looking at the approach on the charts, but once you get there it always seems a lot easier than one presumed. We anchored near the Royal Suva Yacht Club and cleared in with the port captain who told us to contact the yacht club to complete customs etc. We called them on the radio and they said we could check in and pay or wait until tomorrow ... so here we are relaxing and sleeping our day away.
The harbour inside was filthy with tons of oil on the surface as well as general rubbish. There goes our nice clean hull. The harbour is filled with deep sea fishing boats rafted together. These are all long line fishing boats that are stripping the pacific of its pelagic fish. The other thing one notices is that they all have Chinese flags off the stern. All around the pacific the Chinese are taking over putting some money into the country for basic development and then collect all the fishing grants etc and clean out their natural resources. Since arriving we have seen a few of the boats rafted near us dumping their rubbish over the side. It's no wonder that the harbour looks as it does.
On a lighter note while Colin was on watch a bird crashed on deck. Shining a light in its direction he found a rather dazed Bird of Paradise with its squid lying on the deck and it stumbling around a little stunned. It did not have much room to take off so flapped around helplessly. Fortunately it flapped down the side past the cockpit where Colin got hold of it. After trying to calm it he was going to launch it, when it latched onto his finger with amazing power for such a small bird. The beak is serrated to grip squid which are extremely slippery from the surface of the water. It took a while for Colin to pry its beak open and launch it skywards in the dark where it found its wings and got going.
So tomorrow we sign in and will head into town to explore. From the water the town has many new and modern looking buildings. Apparently the shops are also well stocked. There are a few things that we need so hopefully they will be available here. Our last shop was in Tahiti almost two months ago.

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Saturday, September 24, 2011

Light winds good eating

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Suva; Fiji
00h37 UTC 23 September
Course: 280°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 23h00 GMT: 97nm
Distance to Suva: 89 nm
Position 18°19' S 179°56' E
All's well on board.

So who told the wind that we were way ahead of schedule and who computed the last weather grib files? Since entering the Lau group of islands the seas have been flat and life on board is levelling out. The wind has slowly died and at times we were down to a meagre 1.8kn of boat speed. Not that this is a problem as we have plenty of time. The grib files that we got yesterday reported that we would continue along on our way with 10kn of wind from the SE slowly turning to the east. Lovely! This morning the wind was 6-8kn but was now blowing from the SW and slowly squeezing us northward on a beat as it tracks to the west. So we are beating to Suva in light winds and the sea is still calm.
We caught a big Mahi Mahi yesterday afternoon and released it as it was over 4ft and far too big for us to keep. It took the lure and then started an amazing aerial display that we have not seen from a Mahi Mahi before. As the winds were light we turned the boat until all the sails backed so that the boat stopped while we fought the fish. If we had a freezer it would have filled that. We only keep big fish if we are going into port or an anchorage where we can share it out.
We have passed some beautiful islands that on the charts look absolutely fantastic with good places to anchor. We no sooner pass the one island and the next rises up over the horizon to great you. As slow as we are going it looks like a Sunday arrival in Suva.... so I guess its cough up and pay. If the wind had stayed with us all the way we would have had a very quick passage. So instead the books are being read and food made and being calm ... sleeping. It takes a few days before one gets used to three hours on watch the three to sleep, but it is nice if you can sleep when it's your three hours off.
Well it's time to finish this as its time to cook or bake something.....hmmm cake!! And we have been making water so the engine has been on and the fridge will be cold, so some jelly will be good... maybe with the still weather some chocolate moose might go down even better.
Till next time

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Friday, September 23, 2011

On passage to Fiji

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Suva; Fiji
23h00 UTC 22 September
Course: 259°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 159nm
Distance to Suva: 189 nm
Position 18°30' S 178°24' W
All's well on board.

After a busy morning sorting out our clearance and getting the boat ready we finally left Neiafu at around two. The winds have been good with some rain. Today we reached the Southern Lau group of islands that belong to Fiji. We are in the Oneata passage which is around four miles wide. We arrived here as it was getting light so that we were able to get some bearings and see how well the charts lined up with the reefs and islands. The passage is around 15nm long and with the winds being rather variable we are making between three and six knots it should take around 4-5 hours. We are way ahead of our schedule and will arrive in Suva on Sunday morning. This is a problem as we will pay-a-plenty for arriving after hours. So we will have to see what to do to slow down. Otherwise alls well on board and the boat is doing fine.

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Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Setting sail for Fiji

It's time to move again and after a wonderful stay in Vava'U in Tonga we say goodbye to many of our friends that turn off here to head south to New Zealand. Some of these boats we have been with since the Canary Islands and many more from the Caribbean. There are however many boats that we have met in the Pacific that are headed to Australia and many of them are doing the rally to Bunderberg so we will see them in ports as we head on west. We still have two thousand miles to go and the road gets a little tricky as there are tons of islands and reefs in the course ahead. Most times when we set off we have open ocean and can really relax as long as the weather stays good. The first that we get to is the Southern Lau group of islands that belong to Fiji after about 200nm. There is a pass that we will go through that lies almost in a straight line between here and Suva. After that we have a few islands to go around on route. Unfortunately we cannot stop in the Lau group as you need a permit and need to first sign in at Suva or Savu Savu. These islands are beautiful and the people still live traditional lives in their small island communities.
So if the weather is good we will sign out tomorrow and should take 4-5 days to get to Suva. It's been raining the last few days and we are hoping that the weather will improve. The winds look like they will be light so we will see how it goes. Well that's it for now we will update as we go along.

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Thursday, September 1, 2011

Cruising; Vava'U; Tonga

Since arriving here a week ago we have cruised to different anchorages that are not very far apart with lovely clear water and tons of small fish. The bigger ones like the tuna/bonito are all over the place but not interested in the lures we have to offer. One large fish cleaned us out and stripped the reel... it might have been a "GT" -giant trevally - as it was over some deeper reef. There are tons islands that stand to 150 to 250 feet, mostly steep sided with a slight undercut section around the tidal zone and many with their own little beach. The islands are all well wooded with small cleared areas where there is a house or so. Generally there are very few people on the smaller islands. Around the islands are beautiful reefs that are very colourful.
One island has a large cave called Swallows Cave. You can swim in or take the dinghy in. The inside has some stalactites, small swallow nests hanging precariously to the ceiling and deep blue water full of fish below. Sadly it is also covered in graffiti dating back to the whaling ship days and all the way to the fluorescent spray can scrawling. There is another cave that we have not been into as you have to dive down 2m across 3-4m then up into the cave. It is far from a suitable anchorage so one needs to go as a group and do it in relay so that someone stays on board.
There are many anchorages still to explore and fishing to be done, but we will go back into town- Neiafu on Tues/Wed next week to meet up with our friends that arrive next week. Until arriving here we have not met many Aussie and Kiwi cruisers, now every bay has plenty as this is the cruising area for boats that leave from Australia and NZ. The last bay there were five Kiwi boats and one charter boat with folk from Christchurch. This is really a wonderful cruising area.

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Sunday, August 28, 2011

The people of Nieiafu; Vava'U; Tonga

Captain Cook called it the "Friendly Isle" and nothing has changed since. The Tongans have always been a kingdom and as such were never colonised by any country. They have retained their cultural ways and unlike other islands that have followed the ways and copied or tried to copy the colonial ruler's way of life. The people here are fantastic. Go into the market that and you are not given the hard sell to buy anything... "Hello... would you like some bananas?" "No Thank you" "Well are you having a nice day?" Where are you from? And off they go having a conversation with you as if you have known them for ages. Then on to the next stall and there would be some more jovial chatting which could include a few more surrounding stalls.
Life is simple here ... be friendly and have respect for others and that's all it takes. There is still an element of trusting others that we in our modern ways have all but thrown out of the window. There is a giving nature... if I have I will share. This is hard ... to be on the receiving end of this. It is not a monetary rich place and yet the people give you things even though you could have bought it instead. We bought some bone carvings and pearls and got extra things added in and then bananas pawpaw's and lemons as a gift on top of that. We have not lived in a culture where people are so keen to share and cannot reciprocate such generosity. Yes these people are rich, very rich. Rich in joy, love, life and spirit. Long may their riches be preserved!

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Arriving in Tonga

It was a long last night with the sea rough and the wind strong. We ran down to the Vava'U group at six knots with just a little jib up. Around four in the morning we were five miles off and we approached the islands using the radar. As we came around to the west of the island the seas started to calm down and after four days the boat became still. We slowed down and waited for na little light of dawn at 6:30 before entering into the passage between the islands. On our way in we were met by a pod of humpback whales so we motored around with them for a while. What a great experience. There were about 8 adults and a calf. One very large one came right up to our stern. They then move off out towards the sea and us in to the bays. Half a mile further, we came to another pod and switch the motor off and drifted along watching them. Finally we got going again and headed up the bays to Nieiafu where we tied alongside to clear customs and immigration. This took a while but everyone was so friendly and helpful that if seemed effortless. Once cleared - three hours later - we took up a buoy off the town happy to be in some still anchorage at the end of the trip. It took us ten days and we covered just on 1300nm.

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Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Reaching in to Tonga

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Neiafu; Vava'u; Tonga
23h00 UTC 24 August
Course: 244°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 160 nm
Distance to Neiafu: 88 nm
Position 18°19' S 172°34' W
All's well on board.

Winds the same... seas the same, maybe a little higher. We took the main down last night and sailed on a small jib but still got to over 10knots. Our average speed for the night was 6.82 knots. We have moved out of the cabin into the saloon onto the floor in the passage. This area has the least movement and at least we can get some sleep. It is very comfortable.
Well tomorrow is Thursday the 25 Aug and we arrive in Nieafu in the morning. We may have to heave too for a while until it is light to enter. But due to lack of interest and keenness we decided to only get there on Friday. Jokes aside tomorrow does not exist as Tonga takes it time as UTC+13 so we affectively cross the date line earlier than 180°. So tomorrow is Friday the 26th.
Lucky we were not a day later as we would not have been able to sign in until Monday and you cannot leave the boat until you have cleared customs and immigration.
So one night of bouncing and tomorrow we can rest.

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Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Bouncing around.. two days to go

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Neiafu; Vava'u; Tonga
23h00 UTC 23 August
Course: 244°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 168 nm
Distance to Neiafu: 267nm
Position 17°34' S 169°42' W
All's well on board.

Well it's a rocking and a rolling all over the ocean at the moment. The seas are 3-4m with a short chop attacking on all fronts but the starboard beam. It is amazing that, in still water, you dive below the boat to clean the bottom and as you sink in the silence you have this massive keel just hanging there. It is still, four and a half tons of lead hanging on the bottom. The boat does not move. When you walk around on deck it is a very still platform. In contrast we are being tipped up all over the place by the waves. They roll us to over 35° on one side and back again to the other in a matter of seconds. Then a wave will hit the stern and the boat slews around causing the self steering into its defiant mood as it swings the helm over to turn the boat back. Unfortunately the night before we had one of the lines on the self steering untie itself and we landed up doing an uncontrolled gybe in 25-30knots. Fortunately not much damage and Colin had just ducked back down into the cockpit from resetting the steering lines. Well the autohelm self steering that was steering the Aries spat the dummy as it tried in vain to get us back on course. Colin disconnected the autohelm and put the wind blade on so that the Aries could sail us on the winds direction. We have fixed the autohelm ... one of the drive belts had come off.
Sleep is really a problem at the moment and we are both fairly tired. Your body gets hammered as you are never still and always needing to hang on. When it is still, you can read a book etc, but at the moment even that does not work. One moment the book is on your nose the next heading off for a tour of the cockpit with you arm attached and your eyeballs stretching to try stay on the line you were reading. So you sit...three hour on three off.
The other evening as the clouds drew the curtains on a fair sunset it looked as though it would rain a lot during the night. Sitting in the cockpit later you could see the stars slowly appearing to keep you company. The moon arrived later... not much left but enough to send all but the brightest stars into hiding. All the contrasts are simply fantastic as one goes from one stage to the next.
We have two more days to Tonga and should arrive some time on Thursday morning. At our current rate of progress(ave:6.8knots) we will need to slow down a little tomorrow night so that we can arrive in daylight to navigate our way in. The winds are expected to remain the same so I guess that the seas will not change much. That's it for now... time to go hang in the cockpit for a few hours

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Monday, August 22, 2011

On route to Tonga - winds up

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Tonga
23h00 UTC 21 August
Course: 244°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 117 nm
Distance to Tonga: 551nm
Position 16°25' S 164°40' W
All's well on board.

Yesterday we had a very slow day as the winds stayed below 10kn. We were doing between 2.8 and 5 knots for most of the day. The sea was fairly flat so it was a good relaxing day. This morning the winds arrived at around 8am and have picked up through the day. We have a good 15-20 knots and are sailing at 6-8 knots. The sea is very lumpy with swells from all directions. These will build as we head down towards Tonga as there have been some big fronts passing through there. The wind should settle to the SE and later in the week to easterly, so hopefully the sea will settle as well. Sleeping now becomes a bit more difficult as the boat is bouncing all over. The evenings have been cool but during the day it gets very hot. With the rougher weather the ports are closed so it gets very warm down below. Otherwise all's going fine.

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Friday, August 19, 2011

On route to Tonga - light winds

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Tonga
23h00 UTC 19 August
Course: 254°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 142 nm
Distance to Tonga: 790nm
Position 15°48' S 160°40' W
All's well on board.

A follow up on Riri that went onto the reef at Palmerston Island (Cook Islands): the island is a small atoll in the middle of nowhere. Yachties use it to break the journey and only if the weather is suitable. It is too deep to anchor off the reef and there is no pass to get a yacht into the atoll. The Islander have put out buoys and the families of each buoy look after you when you arrive and help you ashore etc. They also have large feasts where all the yachts get invited. Riri was moored to one of these buoys when it broke free and Riri and the mooring went up onto the reef at three in the morning. Frank and gail have salvaged what they can with the help of other cruisers and the islanders. There are a few yachts still to pass there and some there already that will assist them and take them on to Tonga.
We are well north of them, in fact between them and Suverow, the other island that yachties stop at for a break. We are trying to follow the wind that for the last day has been allusive. We have motored for almost twenty hours on still seas that have a lazy 1-2m swell running. The swells have a long period so there is not too much movement on the boat. Yesterday just before sunset we saw a shoal of tuna ahead of us. Colin jumped up and got two lines in. The smaller rod got hit first and the line broke almost on the strike. The other lure had a few chasers but no strike. Colin retrieved the line and change lures that had an immediate effect. The rachet on the reel broke and caused an overwind and the fish snapped the line. After a quick reset we were into the tuna again... result... tuna for the next few days.
We motored through the night and this morning the breeze filled in and we are under sail again. It's been light but it is slowly building and we are now up to 5-6 knots boat speed. This should hold for the next day maybe a little lighter tomorrow before it builds over the next few days. We are slowly heading south again so that when the blow arrives over the weekend from the SE we will be far enough south to keep the wind aft of the beam. The gribs say 25Kn+ so we should have some fun and some waves to go with it. So for now we will enjoy the lovely sailing we are having.

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Wednesday, August 17, 2011

On route to Tonga

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Tonga
23h00 UTC 17 August
Course: 269°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 140 nm
Distance to Tonga: 1038nm
Position 15°26' S 156°48' W
All's well on board.

The winds so far have been good. We have had some rain but so far all is going well. We are slowly getting back into passage mode. We hope to get to Tonga by next week Tuesday. We are keeping to a northerly course to stay in the wind and avoid some of the disturbed weather further south. Thursday we will head south as strong winds are due to come through from the SE over the weekend and we do not want to then be too far north.
We received some sad news on the radio schedule this morning. Our very good friends on the yacht Riri went onto the reef at Palmerston Island(Cook Islands) at 03h00 and the boat has been lost. Frank and Gail are fortunately okay. There are other yachts there at the moment and they are trying to salvage what they can from the yacht. At this stage we have no more info.

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Monday, August 15, 2011

Bora Bora to Tonga

After a wonderful week in Bora Bora the wind has returned and it is time to move on. We have really enjoyed our stay in Bora Bora. We were in a very pretty anchorage in crystal clear water on the west side of the island. From here we used the dinghy to tour around. We have a long haul ahead with light winds predicted so we will head north first to where the winds should be a little more consistant.
It is 1300nm to Tonga and so we should be there in 12-15 days. We will do the usual updates as we go.

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Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Raiatea

On Sunday morning 24/7 we left for Raiatea. It was an overnight passage of 130nm. The wind in the shadow of Tahiti was very light, but once clear of it we had a good broad reach all the way to Raiatea. We entered through the reef on the west side. The island is beautiful and we are enjoying all the bays. The village is small but has good shops and a lovely fresh produce market. Our wind generator has packed up so it is in for repairs. So for now we will take a look around some more bays until it is sorted out. We hope to leave here and get to Bora Bora by the weekend. Some time next week we will leave for Tonga.

Tahiti

Tahiti wascovered with the clouds as we arrive early in the morning. The east side of the island is windy and wet and fortunately the town and marina are on the other side. This is the trade wind side.
Tahiti has been fun and as it was their time for celebrations so there was a lot to see. The island itself is a busy place compared to all the other little islands that we have been to. The anchorage was also busy and deep which meant that you had all your chain out with lots of boats very close to you. One evening a wind came up and many boats had problems with their holding. We fortunately held fast as there is nothing worse than trying to anchor in a very crowded deep anchorage in the dark. The sun sets in the west over the island of Moorea that always formed a lovely backdrop to the anchorage.

The town had shops were you could find anything you wanted but all very expensive. Near the marina we have a lovely large supermarket that made getting foodstuffs easy and downtown there is a super fresh produce market. All around the streets there are stalls as well as shops that are selling pearls. I guess that out on the smaller islands is the place to get them as there are not as many tourists to inflate the prices.

Most of the women dress beautifully and they all love their hats with real flowers on or else just the flowers on their heads. The flowers are often made up ready to purchase along the roads or in the markets and the scents are absolutely beautiful. The flowers around the market for wearing and as bouquets are so colourful.
All over in the streets  you find groups playing local and traditional music so there is always a good buzz around town.

We took a bus and travelled south of the marina as far as it would go to see some of the island. We went with the folk from Gabber and Promise and had a wonderful day stopping at the cultural museum on the way back. We had lunch on the beach at a little restaurant where we sat watching the surfers try their luck. At the pass that we go through they have boats that take the surfers out there and ride the big waves.... not much room for error as the coral is never too far from the front of the wave. The idea is to surf the wave and follow the break till it ends at the pass were the water gets deep again ... this is fine as long as you do not fall off. In August they have one of the world large wave competitions here.

On Bastille day we went to the Polynesian games held on the grounds of the museum were they have stone lifting... up to 160kg. The time starts as soon as the competitor lifts the stone clear of the ground and stops once he has the stone on his shoulder and has his left arm outstretched ... in the 100kg division the time winning time was 2.44sec.

The other section that we enjoyed was the throwing of spears/javelins at a coconut at the top of a flagpole. Each competitor has 10 spears and they have a set time for all of them to throw their spears at the same time. They do this a few times and then see who got the most spears into the coconut. There would be over twenty spears in the coconut at the end of each section. At the end they had a team section won by a local team. Many of the teams come in from the surrounding islands. All the participants in all of the events dress in tradition dress and the activities are interspersed with Tahitian dances.
Well time to let the hair down and its weekend so many head for the shallows of the reef where floating restaurants, bars etc. park up and the locals arrive in boats and bits to swim and party. It is shallow so people just stand in the water thats waste deep. some play games like volleball. its just one big party.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Papeete; Tahiti

We have arrived in Papeete and have anchored up near the Taina marina just south of the main city. The last night was a good one as the wind stayed fairly constant and the rain squalls never showed up. We finally anchored around 12 o clock and had some lunch. The anchorage is very full with around two hundred boats around us. The water is deep so we have all our chain out to hold us in place. It is very calm though with almost no wind. Later we went ashore to go to the shop and say hello to some other yachts around us that we know. We changed outboard engines on the dinghy and we can get the dink to plane now with two of us in it so are able to get around quicker and go longer distances without it taking all day. So here we are planning along towards the dinghy dock and suddenly run aground on a coral reef. What a dreadful noise of fibreglass running up on the coral and then the engine kicking up and moaning at being out of the water. We cut the engine and Colin got out onto the coral to see what our lot was. Push it back was about all we could do. Sandy had to get out and stand on the coral and we pushed the boat back. As it got to the end of the coral and the boat dropped back the coral that Colin was on gave way and he took an unwanted swim. Once back in the boat we navigated away from the coral and returned to the yacht to get dry clothes and patch up Colin's shins where they had been cut on the coral that did not give way. A little later we tried again and made it to the dinghy dock successfully. The coral wraps almost all the way around the dock with one tiny float on the one corner of it that we did not even see from the direction that we first approached. There must be many a dinghy that has made friends with that reef. When we hauled the dinghy out last night all seemed okay on the bottom, just a few more scratches and the motor is fine. The shop was great... a big supermarket with everything!!!! Wow.... but expensive and our few things came to $100 but nothing as expensive as all the little islands that we have just been through. Colin got himself a large T-steak about an inch thick. Fresh beef... the first time since Panama. So we will stay here a few days and enjoy the French cheeses and other FRESH fruit and veg before we head off again and tackle some more of the tins on board.... beans , something and beans and something else with beans and more .... beans.

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Friday, July 8, 2011

On route to Papeete

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
23h00 UTC 08 July
Course: 240°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 135 nm
Distance to Tahiti: 108nm
Position 16°55' S 147°51' W
All's well on board.

Well the rain cleared mid morning after a large squall that got us thinking that we would wait another day. We are pleased that we opted to go as the rain and squalls have stayed away so far. The pass was a little tricky as the tide was going out into a fairly rough sea. As we got towards the outside of the pass the waves were very steep and close together with some breaking standing waves. Fortunately our friend had just gone through and radioed us to say it was very rough but not for too long and once they were out the sea settled down. So in we plunged.... The first wave over left us with waterfalls inside as two hatches were still on their breather openings. Fortunately one was the heads but the other was above the chart table. Luckily most of that water landed on the floor. We could not rush down to close them as the boat was being tossed around with waves coming straight in over the bow. Well we were soon through that and the rest of the trip so far has been good sailing. The 3m seas on the grib files seem to be a large swell now coming in from the SE that is about 50m crest to crest. They roll us a little but they are fine. We are a little ahead of our schedule but will keep pushing on as the wind is supposed to get lighter overnight. We should get in to Papeete early tomorrow morning.

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Thursday, July 7, 2011

Fakaravai to Papeete; Taihiti

Today we are off to Papeete. The weather is not the best as it is rainy with strong winds. Over the weekend the wind dies off so we cannot leave later unless we wish to motor most of the way. We will leave today about midday and looks like a bumpy sail as the sea is running at 3m. Tomorrow the winds improve and the rain is supposed to go(but not the swell) and the next day it all becomes very light as we get down to Papeete. We should arrive sometime in the morning. This will be a repeat of the trip from Marquesas to here sea and weather wise. There are a few boats leaving today and others tomorrow so there will be plenty boats arriving in Papeete over the weekend. We will do a usual position report tomorrow otherwise when we get to Papeete. Trip: 240nm

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Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Fakaravai; Taumotus

We have been a few days in Fakarava and at the moment the weather is foul. It is raining with strong winds. We are well protected as far as the wind goes as we are behind the island. What is interesting is the swell that we are getting from the SW. This is due to a storm to the south west of here and most probably something that is lurking around New Zealand or just past there. As these seas are very large they come over the reef into the atoll and affect us on the inside. This atoll is massive. Maybe I could just add in here how they form and what causes them to be as they are. Once there was a volcano here with a reef growing around it. Over the ions the volcano slowly subsides due to the ocean floor subsiding. This happens so slowly that the coral can keep pace and keeps growing for the surface. Eventually the volcano disappears under the surface and only the coral is left, leaving a very flat atoll. As the seas really hammer the atoll from the south west most of the atolls have little to no land to form islands on that side. Most of the land is on the north and east sides and this is where you normally find the town/villages. So with nothing to stop the big seas crashing in over the southern sides, the swells although small, still make it all the way up here 21-25 miles to the NW corner. The passes are also of interest. When the volcano was still above the surface it would have had rivers that would have flowed off it into the ocean. At these points the coral would not have grown and so the passes were formed. Also with the seas coming in over the reef on the SW corner putting tons of extra water into the atoll a very strong current develops through the pass making it difficult to get into the atoll. So with high seas/swells from the SW and rain and strong winds 25-30kn from the SE we are staying put. The wind should die down by Thursday and we will head on down to Papeete on Tahiti. We have spent a lot of time just walking around the village and along the seaward side of the atoll. The land area from lagoon to the sea is between 300m and 500m wide and it only rises a few meters above sea level. The ground is loose coral with some hard rocky areas and not much sand. The island has a good covering of palm trees and the locals process the coconuts for the copra. The copra is apparently subsidised to give the people a form of income, but even this does not seem to cover the costs of all the toil to get to copra to the point where it is dry. The gardens are sparse and many people seem to grow their plants in pots. We did come across one person with a small market garden. There are two problems with growing anything here. The poor soil and the lack of water. We were lucky to find some low coconut palms again as we walked around and got these opened up to drink. The green ones are sweet but the yellow ones have a lovely fizz to them. They really are lovely cooled, but then the trees don't grow on ice. Something that has surprised us on most of our travels so far is the lack of beaches. One always sees tropical islands advertised as white sandy beaches and palms where you can sit and relax and drink your coconut and read a book and laze around.... sadly not, there are very few beaches and that goes for the Caribbean as well. The atolls are rough coral reefs on the outside with very little in a way of a beach on the inside. Even in the Marquesas the beaches are stony heads of a bay and anything outside the bay is cliff and rock territory with usually large swells and waves to go with it. The shops here are so expensive that we have avoided them since our first shopping expedition. US$8 for a 2ltr coke and the cheese... Oh well we can get some more in Tahiti. Part of the problem is that the islanders do not pay any personal tax. Very nice... However they have a consumer's tax like GST/VAT. Now that's a great idea, but it does make things expensive for us. But the good side is that everyone pays there share according to what they spend. The people again are very friendly and they all great you and smile as they go by. There is not much else here so I guess I will end off here for now. Till next time...

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Saturday, July 2, 2011

Kaueh to Fakaravai; Taumotus

Yesterday we went snorkelling on one of the many reefs. There were plenty of fish with stunning colours and shapes that came in all sizes. The corals were beautiful with not as much colour, but with the fish sitting between the fingers of coral you had the contrasts that would have been great to photograph should we have had a camera for the task. The one coral had a school of very light blue fish between the fingers that were a cream colour and the whole coral was no bigger than a football, but wow did it look lovely. The other striking colours that we saw were the clams. They all sit on the reef with their zigzag shells open and their mantels form a colourful lip along the inside of the shell. Over one area of coral there were five of the clams next to each other and not one had the same colouring. Some had specks or stripes of metallic blue, silver, gold or green with bright orange and other colours. Again that would have made a spectacular photo.

Today we changed anchorages as well as atolls. We were planning to go to Papeete but the winds are very light and Papeete lies 280nm away. Rather than stay at Kauehi for a few more days we decided to head off to Fakarava. The lagoon was like a mirror today and we motored across to the pass and left with the tide. For most of the pass the water was still with a 3kn current. On the seaward side there were big swirls that pushed us around a little, but the sea was calm as there was no wind and therefore no waves. From pass to pass it was 32nm and we motored all the way. The pass into Fakarava is really wide and with some dolphins to escort us in it was very easy. The water was calm and we had a 2-3kn current with us. This atoll is so big that you cannot see the other side. It does pose a problem for coming in if there are strong winds from the SE to SW as you can be faced with considerably large waves on the inside. It is around 21miles wide on the inside and very deep with coral bombies that make it to the surface. This makes navigation around it interesting and best done with Polaroid glasses on and the sun behind you in the middle of the day. We are not that adventurous so we will stick to the main channels. The anchorage is good and we popped ashore to the shop, but everything is so expensive. We got some milk as our supply had finally run out and some brie to have with our sun downers/dinner. We only had a snack for dinner as it was so calm out at sea that Sandy was able to cook up a feast for lunch.... Curry stew. Colin the lazy ol' bugger sat with his foot on the helm steering, but gave up on that and put on the auto helm and he did not even catch a fish... needs to be fired!! Well before we do too much firing we will say bye for now and will chat again later.

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Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Kauehi; Taumotus

What a lovely bay. The sea is flat and the water turns all the shades of blue as it heads to the beach, punctuated by black and as it gets shallower brown to green patches of coral. We headed ashore and tied up at the pier in front of the church. There are some beautiful fish around the pier. We then walked through the little village that lines the bay. It's very small but very neat and tidy. There is one little shop and we manage to get some cheese and a juice there before continuing along the road until we got to a lovely beach. We must have walked a kilometer or more along in the water and the sand felt like velvet on the feet. We stopped where a coconut palm was low enough to pick the yellow coconuts (the nice fizzy yellow ones) and had one each to drink. We continued along the beach and then finally worked our way back through the coconuts palms to the village. We headed back to the boat for lunch and spent the afternoon doing some work on the steering, as the cables needed tightening and checking as there was a noise coming out of the pedestal while the Aries was steering. It would have been an easy job but there is always one ... just one screw that will not come out and ... Okay, so that is all sorted and back together again and the bed is back together as that all needed to come out to get to the Quadrant above the rudder. Tomorrow we want to explore the weather side of the island and maybe do some snorkelling. Then the solar panel wiring must be checked as there is no current coming through. At least there is a good breeze and our wind generator is doing its bit by keeping the batteries topped up. So a full day tomorrow, but then if we go sit on the beach all day that's also OK because that's cruising. Till next time...

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The Pass Kauehi; Taumotus

Approaching the pass of Kauehi the rainsquall's keep coming. In a way this is good as the trip to here has been rough and the boat is covered in salt from the waves breaking against the side and spray going halfway up the mast. As this dries it leaves crystals behind that then stick to everything and gets transferred below. Now the rain is welcome and once through the pass it will be calmer. As we approach the pass all is still and we can see some overfalls on the inside. It is early, at least two hours earlier than we should have been, but the pass looked good. We edged our way closer and the water remains good so we decided to go through. Halfway we had a few waves but all was good and we were though... trembling knees and all. It was real easy at the end of the day so what was all the fuss for... it can get really bad in the passes and you just cannot get through them then. We radioed our friends behind us and they followed us through. The lagoon had some waves as the fetch to the weather side was must be around 6-8miles. The route across the lagoon was easy even though it was early and we had poor light to see the coral. We followed the ship channel that remains between 18-39m deep to the village on the other side of the atoll. The anchorage is lovely and for the first time in weeks we have anchored in a bay where the water is clear and there is no rolling around. Did a few odds and sods... made some fresh rolls and had lunch. As Colin had been up since 11pm the previous evening reefing in for the squalls and the letting sail out again as the wind dropped ( We needed to keep up our speed to above 5kn but not over 6kn to get to the pass at a reasonable time), it was now time to catch up on some sleep. So bellies full we hit the pillows. So till later ZZZZZZZZ
All our love
Colin and Sandy

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Saturday, June 25, 2011

Almost there... Kauehi; Taumotus

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 01 July
Course: 200°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 143 nm
Distance to Taumotus: 123nm
Position 14°32' S 144°04' W
All's well on board.

So far so good. The weather has settled a little and we have 15-20knots ESE winds and the sea is 1-2m. It is still a little choppy but far better than what we have had so far. We should arrive off Kauehi some time tonight and at the moment it looks as if we will get through the pass around 10-11am local time (19h00 UTC). With the atolls all the water has to get in and out through the pass which causes strong currents in the pass with overfalls and whirlpools etc. These can run up to 7kn so we need to go in at slack water. Sometimes with larger swells filling the lagoon over the top of the reef even more water has to leave through the pass which makes it more difficult to calculate the slack water. Conditions are good at the moment so it should not be too troublesome. There are three of us all headed to the same pass so we can make a joint decision when to go in. While we are waiting we can motor around with some lures out... now that could prove interesting. The reef around the atoll drops off quickly and you do not have to be very far off it to be in a 1000m of water. At the pass on the chart it goes from 1000m to 200m in about 100m and then to 20-30m in the next 100m. Maybe we should just troll through the pass. Inside the lagoon is deep with coral heads reaching the surface in some areas but in the passage across to the far side of the atoll where we will anchor off the little village they are deep at 24m. One does not want to stray as there are some on the edges of the passage that show as 0.4m.
The atolls themselves are very low and you normally see the trees on them first (in the dark...?). The atoll surrounds a lagoon and many parts of it are submerged reef that you can only see because of the waves breaking on them. We are presently passing two atolls that have large lagoons that are totally enclosed with no pass so no way in and you cannot anchor on the outside. We cannot see them as we are too far off... the better place to be as the charts are not always that accurate. There is one small atoll between us and Kauehi that we have to sail around that is the same. The inside of some of the atolls are over 20miles across. At Kauehi we have seven miles to get to the opposite side to the pass. Well this all leads to an interesting night to night and morning tomorrow. So for now we shall rest and next we will write form inside the atoll comfortably anchored. Hopefully!!!!

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Friday, June 24, 2011

Niku Hiva; Marquesas to Kauehi; Taumotus

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 30 June
Course: 195°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 176 nm
Distance to Taumotus: 255nm
Position 12°28' S 143°14' W
All's well on board.

Wednesday and we finally get out of Niku Hiva. The weather says that the winds will be 20 knots ESE. The rain we have been having will clear. Well after rolling around in this anchorage for a week we take the gap with four other boats. Upped anchor at 11 and out the bay by 12 and was it rough out there. The wind was 20 - 25 Knots and the sea 3-4 meters and choppy. This leg to the Taumotus is a reach and a fairly tight one for us at that too. At least the rain has stayed away. Well its Friday now too rough to sit and type yesterday... even today the keys are jumping all over the place. The winds have stayed over 20 knots and have visited 30. With the seas being so rough they break against the side of the boat and wet everything. Fortunately everything is well secured so there is no need to go crawling around outside the cockpit. Of course the next problem is to get some sleep. Once you are tired enough I guess that you don't lie awake for too much of your three hours. Cooking food is again difficult and so we turn down on to a run to settle the boat. I find it hard that people will sail in the opposite direction to us and beat into this for days on end. Our next trick is to get our timing right to get into the pass at Kauehi, as if we do not make it, we will not hang around as the next chance will be in the dark or the next day... so we will escape from between the Motus and head /bounce down to Papeete on Tahiti. Then we will need a break. Hopefully we will get through on Sunday morning and will be able to stop for a few days.

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Monday, June 13, 2011

Niku Hiva

Ua Pou was just fantastic and we had a great time there. On the Tuesday the ship arrived and some yachts got five hoots to get them to move out of the way. The ship only just fits. We booked the day before at a restaurant that is only open when the ship arrives. They have a buffet of Polynesian food laid out for you to feast on. Before the meal they had traditional music and then dances. It cost a fair bit but it was really worth it. Unfortunately all our cruiser friends that went up there to book just after us did not get in. They did come and watch all the dancing.
We chatted to another boat in the anchorage and they said that the anchorages on the western side of the island were not that good as there was a large swell rolling in. We could feel the effects of that where we were. So instead of heading there we came over to Niku Hiva. We are now anchored in Daniels Bay where the mountains fold in around you. It is absolutely stunning!!!! We took a walk up the valley through some ruins and stone work from early settlements in the area. The rock walls and house platforms that they built are amazing. With only a few people living here now and the forest having reclaimed most of the valley one can only just imagine what was here once before. As you go up the valley you enter a vertical chasm that has been eroded over time by the water. At the head of this valley/chasm you have the world's third highest waterfall. As one stands at the bottom you look up 390m/950ft to the head of the fall. You actually have to swim to reach the base of the fall as the narrow gorge that has been cut by the water folds around. The whole valley is surrounded by these massive cliffs and many form massive pinnacles as the water has worn the rock away around them. The rest form these deep vertical chasms and overhangs and then... halfway up you will see some white specs moving... Goats! They are everywhere and when you got to the fall you get a hard hat to put on as the goats dislodge ... hopefully ... small rocks. When it rains it is too dangerous to go up the valley as the water will also send rocks down from the top. Overall we are very pleased to be here and be able to experience these beautiful islands.
We have had some stormy weather so have not moved from Daniels Bay as it is quiet and very well sheltered. Last night all the cruisers went ashore and had sundowners on the beach with a massive fire and food to share. What a great time we had and even getting off the beach again was exciting as the waves were up a little. We all made it out some wetter than others. From here we will go along the coast six miles to the town to get some fresh supplies before heading off to the Tuamota's maybe on Tuesday or Wednesday or whenever we get going. Till then...

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Monday, June 6, 2011

Ua Pou

Sitting here in some of the most beautiful settings in the world is just fantastic. We left Hanamoenoa on Tahuata early to get out of the rain as we still intended to spend another day here. Instead of heading for Ua Pou as we were first going to do, we rather headed back to Hiva Oa, but this time to the north west corner and the bay of Hanamenu. It was a relatively small bay and there were five other yachts there (all of whom we knew). We went ashore through the surf and once on dry land we were in paradise. The valley that forms the bay was stunning. There were two folk resident there and they were most welcoming. They gave us limes, coconuts, bananas and grapefruit... a lovely one you can eat without screwing up your eyes. The valley has been occupied since early times and lots of the stonework is still in place and it was fantastic to be able to walk around here and explore... eating guavas as we went along. Near the beach there is a lovely spring with a pool about waste deep to swim or wash in, but definitely to freeze in... Icy cold water pouring out the side of the mountain. We spent the night all together having a good feed of mahi-mahi that one of the boats caught. We took an apple pie along for pud. The next morning all but one of us left for Ua Pou which was sixty miles away. We had to motor for the first hour to get out of the wind shadow of the island and after that had 20knots of wind all the way to our destination. The island of Ua Pou has the most dramatic geological features on earth. The mountains have massive high spires that disappear into the clouds. We had to wait two days to see them and then only for a short while. Last night we went to a Polynesian dance and feed up at the local town hall. The food was really interesting and some of the seafood I had not seen on a plate before. Great food and music and we all had a good time. Almost all the yachts here attended so it was a great social get together for us,and for the islanders it's their usual weekend get together. The people here are so friendly and all try to talk to you. It is a pity that we do not speak French. The bay is lovely and has emptied out a little as some of the yachts moved on today to Niku Hiva. We may miss that as we are going around to the west side of this island to explore. From there we will head down to the Tuamutus about four days sail away. So for now we will just keep exploring... sorry no photos yet and there won't be any until we reach Papeete so that will still be some time. In the mean time we will keep on taking them and post them then. Till next time...

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Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Tahuata

Tahuata
Another beautiful day in a very beautiful bay. We are only about ten miles from Hiva Oa on the west side of Tahuata in the bay Hanamoenoa. The blue water runs up to the beach slowly getting lighter and ends on a beautiful white sand beach fringed with palm trees. There is no village and the place seems to only be occupied when they harvest the coconuts and process the copra. The water is beautifully clear and there are plenty of fish.. fairly large one at that. I have caught and released some including a good sized white tip reef shark. The reef fish here are not safe to eat as there is ciguatera in the islands. We did get a lovely yellow fin tuna on our way here that has really been lovely. As we move around now we keep on crossing paths with cruisers that we have met before. It is all very sociable and everyone is really great. Tomorrow or the next day we will move down to Au Pou about 64nm away. We will leave very early morning and should make it down there by mid afternoon. It is sad that one does not have more time on this run. We have four months to move through the Pacific but at least a month of that is sailing time so one cannot linger too long at one place. One needs to select ones islands carefully to see and experience as much as possible. Most of them are similar but each has its own interesting history and community etc. Time for a walk on the beach so bye for now.

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Saturday, May 28, 2011

Its wonderful

Atuona; Hiva Oa
Well so far so good. The islanders are ever so friendly and the little village is neat and tidy. There is a beautiful aroma of the tropical flowers as one walks along. The shops in the village are well stocked and have an interesting assortment of goods. The hardware is great with some amazing carving tools etc as that is a popular occupation on the islands. It is a long walk to town and we have done it a few times, but a lot of the time someone will stop and give you a lift. The island is very green with lots of beautiful trees. As it is winter many of the large trees have lost their leaves. It is amazing to think of it being winter with high humidity and around 28deg Celsius. It has been raining a lot and the last two days we have had the boat closed up. You no sooner open a hatch and the rain starts up again. It is very hot and sticky down below. The front is supposed to pass over by tomorrow (Sunday) and the sun should be out again. Tomorrow we are going on to the next island and as the peaks are lower there should be some sun. We desperately need to do some washing etc. Speaking to one of the locals, she said that the village gets lots of rain now, but the eastern side of the island is sunny. Later in the season when the winds change this end becomes sunny and it rains on the other half. There is a massive peak and mountain around the town but we have not seen the top of it yet. We have seen some of the lower peaks and ridges in the mist and they are totally awesome.

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Friday, May 27, 2011

Day 20 and a bit

Atuona; Hiva Oa.
Tues 24 May
Land at last after 20 days and six hours. We pushed like crazy on the last day to make up enough time to arrive before sunset and got in just after five. The anchorage is not very large and the boats are packed in rather tightly. If arriving after dark we would have had to anchor outside the break water where it would have been very rough. The anchorage is rolly but it's good to be in here. Tomorrow we will sign in as the gendarmerie. Later we will go into town and look around. The bay and harbour are surrounded by massive peaks that disappear into the clouds. These clouds that form against them also cause a fair bit of rain here in the anchorage. Coming in the sun was shining over the top of them and it was black below. One was looking over the silver water into the sun and could see nothing in the direction we were going until we got in below the clouds and out of the sun. When we got in, some friends from another yacht came across to assist us in getting out a stern anchor. Many of the people here we know as we have met them in previous anchorages or on our radio net coming over. It was great having land around us again and having people etc to chat to. On the whole of the passage we only saw two other yachts at night... at least their lights and we were able to call and chat to them on the VHF radio. We saw two fishing trawlers during the night over the last week and that was it. Now we look forward to a good rest... a full night's sleep and to do some walking. There is a lot to explore over the next few weeks as we travel through the islands and will keep you posted. HF radio contact out from between the mountains is tricky but we will see how it goes, till then....

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Monday, May 23, 2011

Day 21/21 the last day today

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
19h00 UTC 23 May
Course: 253°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 163 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 51nm
Position 09°45' S 138°10' W
Well this is it... hopefully our last day on this leg. We are pushing like crazy to get in before dark tonight. It is 10h00 local time and sunset will be at 18h20. So the race is on. Our friends in front of us saw the islands from 35nm away this morning when the sun came up so we should see them starting to rise out the ocean in about ten miles.
Yesterday was frustrating trying to keep up the speed as the wind was variable and light (8-10kn) and at times the breeze was not enough to keep the spinnaker full as the boat rolled on the swells. As a result we had the spinnaker wrap around the forestay a few times. This is always a worry as it pulls tight and can be very difficult to get free. Lucky for us most times it came free easily. Once we had a real battle with it.
The entry into the bay tonight is a good one as there are navigation marks/lights and there is open water all the way in. We will have to anchor out of the harbour area as we do not have a second anchor to deploy off the stern to keep us facing into the swell that rolls into the bay. As the other boats will have theirs out, we cannot swing around in circles on a single anchor. If we get in early enough we will be able to sort a stern anchor out...so it depends on time of arrival.
Yesterday our autohelm gave up the ghost and Colin needs to remove the wheel to fix it. We think that the gearbox has failed... the same thing that happened to us as we approached St Lucia after the Atlantic crossing. So that will have to be done at anchor. We have a spare gearbox as well as spare cogs to rebuild this one if necessary/possible. The wind is too light for the Aries to give us an accurate course as it wonders around all over.
So here we are a full day to steer and watch the peaks of the Marquesas rise out the ocean.
Till next time...

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Friday, May 20, 2011

Knocking off the miles

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 20 May
Course: 255°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 161 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 460nm
Position 09°29' S 131°11' W
We are still rolling along merrily as we knock the miles off the clock. We had a good day yesterday with tha spinnaker up all day. The evening run went well until we ran into a rainsquall that caused the usual problems. About an hour later the wind returned to normal and we got back on course. Since then we have had to make no changes. If the wind stays as it is, we should make Hiva Oa on Monday afternoon or with less wind Tuesday morning. We had a yacht pass us the other evening doing 2 or so knots more than us. They had taken 10 days for what we had done in 16. They were a large cat and the weather was really suited for them, a close reach. The tin food is going well and trying to keep a variety of things on the plate is not the easiest. With the tins being mostly the same size you have lots of one thing and nothing of the other. We find that the tin stuff does not keep that well once opened so you eat what you open. Colin has not been fishing as it is not the easiest to process the fish up on deck with the boat rolling from side to side. One lands up getting fish and blood all over the place.
Otherwise life on board goes on... hanging on. We were going to bake bread rolls today but put that on hold till the sea settles a little. Fuel wise we are also doing well as we have only motored for four hours so far and the other times we have run the engine have been to charge the batteries and to make water. Just heard this morning that Hiva Oa is out of fuel again till the supply ship arrives. We won't need to worry and will top up our tank later on at one of the other islands.

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Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Just sailing along

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 18 May
Course: 257°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 142 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 740nm
Position 09°13' S 126°24' W
We have had a pleasant night and days sail today. The rain has moved off and the seas are slowly settling. Running downwind in 12-16kn and doing around 5-6kn. All's well on board.

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Hanging on

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 17 May
Course: 255°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 155 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 899nm
Position 08°56' S 123°53' W
Well the winds up and so are the seas. We have been having some fun and games. In one of the rain squalls we had a massive wind change and gybed. The boom took down our tent over the cockpit that we use for shade. When the boom gybed back the shackle that holds the main sheet on flew off. (These shackles are fastened with pliers and then get a zip tie through then to prevent them coming off). Trying to retrieve the boom when running in a rainsquall is not the easiest of party tricks.
Later while we were running with the jib poled out we needed to gybe. We furled most the jib away in the process. Unfortunately what was still free formed a wrap around the forestay and slowly wound its way to the top of the forestay as the flogging bit of sail unwound the furled sail and rewound it on at the bottom. Of course these things always happen in the dark. At least it was full moon last night. It took forever to get it all free.
Today it was really rough and hanging on was the order of the day. Sleep tonight will be short as you get bounce clean out of any dream every few minutes. We are putting in a second reef and having a conservative night tonight, everything is set and the Aries is steering, so hopefully it will keep up with the wind changes and we will not have to make any changes. Tomorrow we will correct the course. We are still heading to far south and may need to gybe and head a little more north as we are level with the islands now. If there is more southerly direction in the wind we will be able to head up on a broad reach, but the grib files have the wind from the east. OK so we only have to pole the jib ....
Oh well we will see what tomorrow will bring, till then...

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Sunday, May 15, 2011

Having an up and down day

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 15 May
Course: 255°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 112 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 1177nm
Position 08°13' S 119°13' W
Having an up and down day today. Some large 3-4m swells rolling through the neighbourhood today. So it's up a few meters then down again. Apparently they will be with us for the next few days. They come from a storm way down south somewhere. Meanwhile we are still trying to make the best of our 8-12 knots of wind. When it is from behind it is difficult to get going. It swings to the SE for a while and the change of angle really helps. Tomorrow we are supposed to get wind from the SE at around 15kn that should help us get going. It lasted for the whole of the grib file which is 72 hours. The yachts ahead of us this morning all reported very light winds and some have cranked up the old motor. We are lucky that we have managed to keep moving so far without resorting to polluting the atmosphere. We are slowly getting through some of the many tins of food on board. Some are nice and we should have bought more others..... Hey! Time to go make supper!!
No... too early, but some tea will do. Then we can sit up in the cockpit and watch the big swells make us go up and then down, up then..... .... ... .. .

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Saturday, May 14, 2011

Getting it the right way around

Moving from one hemisphere to another can really mess with ones internal mapping. OK, so I'm no homing pigeon, but for years now I could not understand certain things from when our family traveled overseas to the northern hemisphere. It all has to do with the sun changing sides. So we headed along a coast in Italy and the sun said that you were heading up the coast to the north. Firstly your brain is confused as the sun is coming up and yet it is where you would expect it to be if the sun was setting. Only years later did I notice that our trip was to the south and a rising sun, it's just that my brain had not changed hemispheres with me.
Now sailing along many years later as the Big Dipper sinks into the sea and can no longer point to Polaris, we cross the equator again into the southern hemisphere. At zero degrees Polaris glides below the horizon never to be seen again should we not venture north. Now it's time for the southern sky to rise up out of the ocean as we slowly head south. The moon is still lazy and is lying on its belly. It still needs to stand up and bend out and reach towards the southern constellations. At least it is now no longer the wrong way around. And if you are coming south from the north... remember, you are now down under so your world will be upside down.

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The otherside of halfway

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 14 May
Course: 255°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 132 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 1307nm
Position 08°16' S 117°02' W
Well we are now on the other side of the middle of the ocean. It is still a hell of a long way to go, but feels very different. You are no longer heading out...rather you are heading back in. Funny how the mind works. Already we have a new mark to pass and that is 1000nm because then there are only hundreds to look at and they go down a little faster than the thousands. Whatever keeps one happy?? Winds still very light only made 3knots at times last night but overall we still managed an average of 5.5kn. Had the spinnaker up yesterday and today but not overnight as we do not want to be bouncing around on the foredeck in a 45kn squall trying to change sails. Nothing like a peaceful night. With the calmer weather we have had better night's sleep but today the heat is sucking off any extra energy you may have got from a better three hours sleep. Otherwise all is going well.

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The middle of the ocean

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 13 May
Course: 246°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 139 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 1439nm
Position 07°42' S 115°18' W
The middle of the ocean. I guess that been halfway between Galapagos and the little island of Hiva Oa that we are headed for means that at this point we are furthest from dry land that we will ever be on the yacht. We celebrated this milestone by baking some chocolate brownies... Immm yummy!!! The winds are light and variable so we will not be zooming off from here at high speed. Its hard work chasing the wind and changing sails as the rain squalls come and go but our average speed is doing ok. We are a little further south than we wanted to be at this stage as we have been trying to stay on a broad reach. As the wind has gone to the east it pushes us further south. At the end one turns down and poles out the jib... result... drop a knot or two in speed and role from side to side. Oh well such is live out in the middle of the ocean.

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Thursday, May 12, 2011

Almost halfway

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 12 May
Course: 276°
Distance covered last 48hrs until 18h00 GMT: 310 nm
Distance to Marquesas: 1547nm
Position 07°55' S 113°04' W
All's well on board as we near the half way mark. So far we have had good wind and made steady progress. Over the last two days the wind has swung around a little so we go from a reach to a run with the jib poled out and back again. Another day of washing but the rain has kept it rather wet so now we have to hang it below deck as it has dried a fair bit but there are rainstorms luring out on the horizon. So at least a little damp is better than totally soaked. The seas calmed down nicely last night, but have now returned to rolly. One of the boats on our radio schedule arrived in Marquesas this afternoon much to the "wish we were there too" from the others on the net. They would have started out about 10 days before us. We will be the last in the group as we left three days after them. We may catch one boat as we reel them in a little each day. The other group of bats we are with ball left together and we are all within a 200 mile radius of each other. We should be halfway tomorrow.

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Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Changing winds

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 10 May
Course: 243°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 136 nm
Distance to Marqueses: 1856nm
Position 07°03' S 108°02' W
So another mixed bag of wind. During the night it dropped below 10kn and needless to say we slowed down(more to a waltz). The sea was a little kinder to us, so some of the chores could be done and we now have a colourful assortment of garments blowing in the breeze on the aft deck. We have had quite a few birds with us today, many Boobies and Paradise birds as well as a bird that looks like a swallow, but a little bigger that skims along the water's surface.
The radio propagation at the moment is very bad and yesterday it took 4min to upload the update and 8min to get the grib files. That is after numerous times of connecting and loosing the connection. It took almost an hour to do mail. Even our radio schedule with each other today was weak and one battled to hear the other yachts. On a wifi connection the same info would have taken around 5-8 seconds. Would it not be lovely to have broadband!!!
Looks like we are heading towards a quiet night... could still do with flatter seas seen that the winds gone. Bye for now... need to check the sails that are flogging themselves and the rigging

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Monday, May 9, 2011

Dancing on waves

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 09May (nothing sent yesterday)
Course: 235°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 165 nm
Distance to Marqueses: 2001nm
Position 06°27 S 105°43 W
Still dancing around on the waves. The wind has been stronger so the seas a little more lively. We are coming up for a third of the way and are pleased with our progress. Still a very long way to go. The question always is... will the wind last? A little less and a calmer sea would be nice but at the moment all of the boats out here are having the same conditions. Our one contact group has 12 boats that are scattered between ourselves and 124°W. We left three days after the last of them. There are two other boats that we keep contact with as they left at the same time as us. We are about 100nm apart. Hopefully the boat will give up on these South American dances and settle for a slow waltz so that we can get on with a few boat chores like washing etc. That's it for today.

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Saturday, May 7, 2011

Still rocking and rolling

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 07 May
Course: 255°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 167 nm
Distance to Marqueses: 2332nm
Position 05°12 S 100°42 W
The wind is still blowing in from the south at 18-22kn and we are making good progress west but have slowed down in making any distance to the south. Last night was a beautiful clear night with a great view of the stars. The Southern Cross is slowly spending more time above the horizon. Had some lovely avo's for lunch today. It is a pity that they all ripen at the same time. We only bought four, so more for lunch tomorrow and then they are finished. Typing is not the easiest at the moment as the keyboard moves continually below ones hands so one continually gets the wrong keys. The grib files show this weather for another two days and then hopefully it will head a little more easterly. At least we have wind so we cannot complain. Sleeping is the only problem... so before I dose off here at the keyboard let's get this posted.

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Friday, May 6, 2011

Another good days sailing

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 Utc 06 May
Course: 235°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 Gmt: 173 nm
Distance to Marqueses: 2499nm
Position 04°33 S 097°59 W
Another good run... long may they last. Last night the wind got up so we put in two reefs for the night as well as a reef in the genoa. We had a little rain and then some more this morning. The rest of the day we have been doing well in a S-SE wind around 12-18knots. We are still waiting for the wind to come around to the east a little more and the seas to flatten down. I guess that the rain squalls don't help much as they can create waves in a very short period of time. Well it's Friday afternoon so we will clock of early for some drinks on the aft deck....Cheers!!!

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Thursday, May 5, 2011

Going well

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
15.00 Local 05 May
Course: 230°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 Gmt: 156 nm
Distance to Marqueses: 2668nm
Position 03°43 S 095°28 W
The winds have been good again for the last 24 hours. They have stayed a little more to the south than we had hoped so we are heading further west at the moment but are going well. This morning the boat was full of small squid between 80 and 150 mm. There were also a few flying fish thrown in. In the morning with the sun behind us the flying fish look spectacular as whole schools of them take to the air on front of us and they are all lit up by the sun. It has been a little bumpy today with the wind on the beam and getting up to 20kn. We have a reef in the main with a full genoa and are doing 6-8knots. It may be a tiring night tonight as the movement of the boat is irregular with the odd bounce enough to move you around the bunk.
Till next time...

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