Kauehi; Taumotus

What a lovely bay. The sea is flat and the water turns all the shades of blue as it heads to the beach, punctuated by black and as it gets shallower brown to green patches of coral. We headed ashore and tied up at the pier in front of the church. There are some beautiful fish around the pier. We then walked through the little village that lines the bay. It's very small but very neat and tidy. There is one little shop and we manage to get some cheese and a juice there before continuing along the road until we got to a lovely beach. We must have walked a kilometer or more along in the water and the sand felt like velvet on the feet. We stopped where a coconut palm was low enough to pick the yellow coconuts (the nice fizzy yellow ones) and had one each to drink. We continued along the beach and then finally worked our way back through the coconuts palms to the village. We headed back to the boat for lunch and spent the afternoon doing some work on the steering, as the cables needed tightening and checking as there was a noise coming out of the pedestal while the Aries was steering. It would have been an easy job but there is always one ... just one screw that will not come out and ... Okay, so that is all sorted and back together again and the bed is back together as that all needed to come out to get to the Quadrant above the rudder. Tomorrow we want to explore the weather side of the island and maybe do some snorkelling. Then the solar panel wiring must be checked as there is no current coming through. At least there is a good breeze and our wind generator is doing its bit by keeping the batteries topped up. So a full day tomorrow, but then if we go sit on the beach all day that's also OK because that's cruising. Till next time...

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The Pass Kauehi; Taumotus

Approaching the pass of Kauehi the rainsquall's keep coming. In a way this is good as the trip to here has been rough and the boat is covered in salt from the waves breaking against the side and spray going halfway up the mast. As this dries it leaves crystals behind that then stick to everything and gets transferred below. Now the rain is welcome and once through the pass it will be calmer. As we approach the pass all is still and we can see some overfalls on the inside. It is early, at least two hours earlier than we should have been, but the pass looked good. We edged our way closer and the water remains good so we decided to go through. Halfway we had a few waves but all was good and we were though... trembling knees and all. It was real easy at the end of the day so what was all the fuss for... it can get really bad in the passes and you just cannot get through them then. We radioed our friends behind us and they followed us through. The lagoon had some waves as the fetch to the weather side was must be around 6-8miles. The route across the lagoon was easy even though it was early and we had poor light to see the coral. We followed the ship channel that remains between 18-39m deep to the village on the other side of the atoll. The anchorage is lovely and for the first time in weeks we have anchored in a bay where the water is clear and there is no rolling around. Did a few odds and sods... made some fresh rolls and had lunch. As Colin had been up since 11pm the previous evening reefing in for the squalls and the letting sail out again as the wind dropped ( We needed to keep up our speed to above 5kn but not over 6kn to get to the pass at a reasonable time), it was now time to catch up on some sleep. So bellies full we hit the pillows. So till later ZZZZZZZZ
All our love
Colin and Sandy

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Almost there... Kauehi; Taumotus

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 01 July
Course: 200°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 143 nm
Distance to Taumotus: 123nm
Position 14°32' S 144°04' W
All's well on board.

So far so good. The weather has settled a little and we have 15-20knots ESE winds and the sea is 1-2m. It is still a little choppy but far better than what we have had so far. We should arrive off Kauehi some time tonight and at the moment it looks as if we will get through the pass around 10-11am local time (19h00 UTC). With the atolls all the water has to get in and out through the pass which causes strong currents in the pass with overfalls and whirlpools etc. These can run up to 7kn so we need to go in at slack water. Sometimes with larger swells filling the lagoon over the top of the reef even more water has to leave through the pass which makes it more difficult to calculate the slack water. Conditions are good at the moment so it should not be too troublesome. There are three of us all headed to the same pass so we can make a joint decision when to go in. While we are waiting we can motor around with some lures out... now that could prove interesting. The reef around the atoll drops off quickly and you do not have to be very far off it to be in a 1000m of water. At the pass on the chart it goes from 1000m to 200m in about 100m and then to 20-30m in the next 100m. Maybe we should just troll through the pass. Inside the lagoon is deep with coral heads reaching the surface in some areas but in the passage across to the far side of the atoll where we will anchor off the little village they are deep at 24m. One does not want to stray as there are some on the edges of the passage that show as 0.4m.
The atolls themselves are very low and you normally see the trees on them first (in the dark...?). The atoll surrounds a lagoon and many parts of it are submerged reef that you can only see because of the waves breaking on them. We are presently passing two atolls that have large lagoons that are totally enclosed with no pass so no way in and you cannot anchor on the outside. We cannot see them as we are too far off... the better place to be as the charts are not always that accurate. There is one small atoll between us and Kauehi that we have to sail around that is the same. The inside of some of the atolls are over 20miles across. At Kauehi we have seven miles to get to the opposite side to the pass. Well this all leads to an interesting night to night and morning tomorrow. So for now we shall rest and next we will write form inside the atoll comfortably anchored. Hopefully!!!!

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Niku Hiva; Marquesas to Kauehi; Taumotus

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
21h00 UTC 30 June
Course: 195°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 18h00 GMT: 176 nm
Distance to Taumotus: 255nm
Position 12°28' S 143°14' W
All's well on board.

Wednesday and we finally get out of Niku Hiva. The weather says that the winds will be 20 knots ESE. The rain we have been having will clear. Well after rolling around in this anchorage for a week we take the gap with four other boats. Upped anchor at 11 and out the bay by 12 and was it rough out there. The wind was 20 - 25 Knots and the sea 3-4 meters and choppy. This leg to the Taumotus is a reach and a fairly tight one for us at that too. At least the rain has stayed away. Well its Friday now too rough to sit and type yesterday... even today the keys are jumping all over the place. The winds have stayed over 20 knots and have visited 30. With the seas being so rough they break against the side of the boat and wet everything. Fortunately everything is well secured so there is no need to go crawling around outside the cockpit. Of course the next problem is to get some sleep. Once you are tired enough I guess that you don't lie awake for too much of your three hours. Cooking food is again difficult and so we turn down on to a run to settle the boat. I find it hard that people will sail in the opposite direction to us and beat into this for days on end. Our next trick is to get our timing right to get into the pass at Kauehi, as if we do not make it, we will not hang around as the next chance will be in the dark or the next day... so we will escape from between the Motus and head /bounce down to Papeete on Tahiti. Then we will need a break. Hopefully we will get through on Sunday morning and will be able to stop for a few days.

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Niku Hiva

Ua Pou was just fantastic and we had a great time there. On the Tuesday the ship arrived and some yachts got five hoots to get them to move out of the way. The ship only just fits. We booked the day before at a restaurant that is only open when the ship arrives. They have a buffet of Polynesian food laid out for you to feast on. Before the meal they had traditional music and then dances. It cost a fair bit but it was really worth it. Unfortunately all our cruiser friends that went up there to book just after us did not get in. They did come and watch all the dancing.
We chatted to another boat in the anchorage and they said that the anchorages on the western side of the island were not that good as there was a large swell rolling in. We could feel the effects of that where we were. So instead of heading there we came over to Niku Hiva. We are now anchored in Daniels Bay where the mountains fold in around you. It is absolutely stunning!!!! We took a walk up the valley through some ruins and stone work from early settlements in the area. The rock walls and house platforms that they built are amazing. With only a few people living here now and the forest having reclaimed most of the valley one can only just imagine what was here once before. As you go up the valley you enter a vertical chasm that has been eroded over time by the water. At the head of this valley/chasm you have the world's third highest waterfall. As one stands at the bottom you look up 390m/950ft to the head of the fall. You actually have to swim to reach the base of the fall as the narrow gorge that has been cut by the water folds around. The whole valley is surrounded by these massive cliffs and many form massive pinnacles as the water has worn the rock away around them. The rest form these deep vertical chasms and overhangs and then... halfway up you will see some white specs moving... Goats! They are everywhere and when you got to the fall you get a hard hat to put on as the goats dislodge ... hopefully ... small rocks. When it rains it is too dangerous to go up the valley as the water will also send rocks down from the top. Overall we are very pleased to be here and be able to experience these beautiful islands.
We have had some stormy weather so have not moved from Daniels Bay as it is quiet and very well sheltered. Last night all the cruisers went ashore and had sundowners on the beach with a massive fire and food to share. What a great time we had and even getting off the beach again was exciting as the waves were up a little. We all made it out some wetter than others. From here we will go along the coast six miles to the town to get some fresh supplies before heading off to the Tuamota's maybe on Tuesday or Wednesday or whenever we get going. Till then...

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Ua Pou

Sitting here in some of the most beautiful settings in the world is just fantastic. We left Hanamoenoa on Tahuata early to get out of the rain as we still intended to spend another day here. Instead of heading for Ua Pou as we were first going to do, we rather headed back to Hiva Oa, but this time to the north west corner and the bay of Hanamenu. It was a relatively small bay and there were five other yachts there (all of whom we knew). We went ashore through the surf and once on dry land we were in paradise. The valley that forms the bay was stunning. There were two folk resident there and they were most welcoming. They gave us limes, coconuts, bananas and grapefruit... a lovely one you can eat without screwing up your eyes. The valley has been occupied since early times and lots of the stonework is still in place and it was fantastic to be able to walk around here and explore... eating guavas as we went along. Near the beach there is a lovely spring with a pool about waste deep to swim or wash in, but definitely to freeze in... Icy cold water pouring out the side of the mountain. We spent the night all together having a good feed of mahi-mahi that one of the boats caught. We took an apple pie along for pud. The next morning all but one of us left for Ua Pou which was sixty miles away. We had to motor for the first hour to get out of the wind shadow of the island and after that had 20knots of wind all the way to our destination. The island of Ua Pou has the most dramatic geological features on earth. The mountains have massive high spires that disappear into the clouds. We had to wait two days to see them and then only for a short while. Last night we went to a Polynesian dance and feed up at the local town hall. The food was really interesting and some of the seafood I had not seen on a plate before. Great food and music and we all had a good time. Almost all the yachts here attended so it was a great social get together for us,and for the islanders it's their usual weekend get together. The people here are so friendly and all try to talk to you. It is a pity that we do not speak French. The bay is lovely and has emptied out a little as some of the yachts moved on today to Niku Hiva. We may miss that as we are going around to the west side of this island to explore. From there we will head down to the Tuamutus about four days sail away. So for now we will just keep exploring... sorry no photos yet and there won't be any until we reach Papeete so that will still be some time. In the mean time we will keep on taking them and post them then. Till next time...

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Tahuata

Tahuata
Another beautiful day in a very beautiful bay. We are only about ten miles from Hiva Oa on the west side of Tahuata in the bay Hanamoenoa. The blue water runs up to the beach slowly getting lighter and ends on a beautiful white sand beach fringed with palm trees. There is no village and the place seems to only be occupied when they harvest the coconuts and process the copra. The water is beautifully clear and there are plenty of fish.. fairly large one at that. I have caught and released some including a good sized white tip reef shark. The reef fish here are not safe to eat as there is ciguatera in the islands. We did get a lovely yellow fin tuna on our way here that has really been lovely. As we move around now we keep on crossing paths with cruisers that we have met before. It is all very sociable and everyone is really great. Tomorrow or the next day we will move down to Au Pou about 64nm away. We will leave very early morning and should make it down there by mid afternoon. It is sad that one does not have more time on this run. We have four months to move through the Pacific but at least a month of that is sailing time so one cannot linger too long at one place. One needs to select ones islands carefully to see and experience as much as possible. Most of them are similar but each has its own interesting history and community etc. Time for a walk on the beach so bye for now.

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