Sunday, August 28, 2011

The people of Nieiafu; Vava'U; Tonga

Captain Cook called it the "Friendly Isle" and nothing has changed since. The Tongans have always been a kingdom and as such were never colonised by any country. They have retained their cultural ways and unlike other islands that have followed the ways and copied or tried to copy the colonial ruler's way of life. The people here are fantastic. Go into the market that and you are not given the hard sell to buy anything... "Hello... would you like some bananas?" "No Thank you" "Well are you having a nice day?" Where are you from? And off they go having a conversation with you as if you have known them for ages. Then on to the next stall and there would be some more jovial chatting which could include a few more surrounding stalls.
Life is simple here ... be friendly and have respect for others and that's all it takes. There is still an element of trusting others that we in our modern ways have all but thrown out of the window. There is a giving nature... if I have I will share. This is hard ... to be on the receiving end of this. It is not a monetary rich place and yet the people give you things even though you could have bought it instead. We bought some bone carvings and pearls and got extra things added in and then bananas pawpaw's and lemons as a gift on top of that. We have not lived in a culture where people are so keen to share and cannot reciprocate such generosity. Yes these people are rich, very rich. Rich in joy, love, life and spirit. Long may their riches be preserved!

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Arriving in Tonga

It was a long last night with the sea rough and the wind strong. We ran down to the Vava'U group at six knots with just a little jib up. Around four in the morning we were five miles off and we approached the islands using the radar. As we came around to the west of the island the seas started to calm down and after four days the boat became still. We slowed down and waited for na little light of dawn at 6:30 before entering into the passage between the islands. On our way in we were met by a pod of humpback whales so we motored around with them for a while. What a great experience. There were about 8 adults and a calf. One very large one came right up to our stern. They then move off out towards the sea and us in to the bays. Half a mile further, we came to another pod and switch the motor off and drifted along watching them. Finally we got going again and headed up the bays to Nieiafu where we tied alongside to clear customs and immigration. This took a while but everyone was so friendly and helpful that if seemed effortless. Once cleared - three hours later - we took up a buoy off the town happy to be in some still anchorage at the end of the trip. It took us ten days and we covered just on 1300nm.

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Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Reaching in to Tonga

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Neiafu; Vava'u; Tonga
23h00 UTC 24 August
Course: 244°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 160 nm
Distance to Neiafu: 88 nm
Position 18°19' S 172°34' W
All's well on board.

Winds the same... seas the same, maybe a little higher. We took the main down last night and sailed on a small jib but still got to over 10knots. Our average speed for the night was 6.82 knots. We have moved out of the cabin into the saloon onto the floor in the passage. This area has the least movement and at least we can get some sleep. It is very comfortable.
Well tomorrow is Thursday the 25 Aug and we arrive in Nieafu in the morning. We may have to heave too for a while until it is light to enter. But due to lack of interest and keenness we decided to only get there on Friday. Jokes aside tomorrow does not exist as Tonga takes it time as UTC+13 so we affectively cross the date line earlier than 180°. So tomorrow is Friday the 26th.
Lucky we were not a day later as we would not have been able to sign in until Monday and you cannot leave the boat until you have cleared customs and immigration.
So one night of bouncing and tomorrow we can rest.

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Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Bouncing around.. two days to go

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Neiafu; Vava'u; Tonga
23h00 UTC 23 August
Course: 244°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 168 nm
Distance to Neiafu: 267nm
Position 17°34' S 169°42' W
All's well on board.

Well it's a rocking and a rolling all over the ocean at the moment. The seas are 3-4m with a short chop attacking on all fronts but the starboard beam. It is amazing that, in still water, you dive below the boat to clean the bottom and as you sink in the silence you have this massive keel just hanging there. It is still, four and a half tons of lead hanging on the bottom. The boat does not move. When you walk around on deck it is a very still platform. In contrast we are being tipped up all over the place by the waves. They roll us to over 35° on one side and back again to the other in a matter of seconds. Then a wave will hit the stern and the boat slews around causing the self steering into its defiant mood as it swings the helm over to turn the boat back. Unfortunately the night before we had one of the lines on the self steering untie itself and we landed up doing an uncontrolled gybe in 25-30knots. Fortunately not much damage and Colin had just ducked back down into the cockpit from resetting the steering lines. Well the autohelm self steering that was steering the Aries spat the dummy as it tried in vain to get us back on course. Colin disconnected the autohelm and put the wind blade on so that the Aries could sail us on the winds direction. We have fixed the autohelm ... one of the drive belts had come off.
Sleep is really a problem at the moment and we are both fairly tired. Your body gets hammered as you are never still and always needing to hang on. When it is still, you can read a book etc, but at the moment even that does not work. One moment the book is on your nose the next heading off for a tour of the cockpit with you arm attached and your eyeballs stretching to try stay on the line you were reading. So you sit...three hour on three off.
The other evening as the clouds drew the curtains on a fair sunset it looked as though it would rain a lot during the night. Sitting in the cockpit later you could see the stars slowly appearing to keep you company. The moon arrived later... not much left but enough to send all but the brightest stars into hiding. All the contrasts are simply fantastic as one goes from one stage to the next.
We have two more days to Tonga and should arrive some time on Thursday morning. At our current rate of progress(ave:6.8knots) we will need to slow down a little tomorrow night so that we can arrive in daylight to navigate our way in. The winds are expected to remain the same so I guess that the seas will not change much. That's it for now... time to go hang in the cockpit for a few hours

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Monday, August 22, 2011

On route to Tonga - winds up

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Tonga
23h00 UTC 21 August
Course: 244°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 117 nm
Distance to Tonga: 551nm
Position 16°25' S 164°40' W
All's well on board.

Yesterday we had a very slow day as the winds stayed below 10kn. We were doing between 2.8 and 5 knots for most of the day. The sea was fairly flat so it was a good relaxing day. This morning the winds arrived at around 8am and have picked up through the day. We have a good 15-20 knots and are sailing at 6-8 knots. The sea is very lumpy with swells from all directions. These will build as we head down towards Tonga as there have been some big fronts passing through there. The wind should settle to the SE and later in the week to easterly, so hopefully the sea will settle as well. Sleeping now becomes a bit more difficult as the boat is bouncing all over. The evenings have been cool but during the day it gets very hot. With the rougher weather the ports are closed so it gets very warm down below. Otherwise all's going fine.

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Friday, August 19, 2011

On route to Tonga - light winds

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Tonga
23h00 UTC 19 August
Course: 254°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 142 nm
Distance to Tonga: 790nm
Position 15°48' S 160°40' W
All's well on board.

A follow up on Riri that went onto the reef at Palmerston Island (Cook Islands): the island is a small atoll in the middle of nowhere. Yachties use it to break the journey and only if the weather is suitable. It is too deep to anchor off the reef and there is no pass to get a yacht into the atoll. The Islander have put out buoys and the families of each buoy look after you when you arrive and help you ashore etc. They also have large feasts where all the yachts get invited. Riri was moored to one of these buoys when it broke free and Riri and the mooring went up onto the reef at three in the morning. Frank and gail have salvaged what they can with the help of other cruisers and the islanders. There are a few yachts still to pass there and some there already that will assist them and take them on to Tonga.
We are well north of them, in fact between them and Suverow, the other island that yachties stop at for a break. We are trying to follow the wind that for the last day has been allusive. We have motored for almost twenty hours on still seas that have a lazy 1-2m swell running. The swells have a long period so there is not too much movement on the boat. Yesterday just before sunset we saw a shoal of tuna ahead of us. Colin jumped up and got two lines in. The smaller rod got hit first and the line broke almost on the strike. The other lure had a few chasers but no strike. Colin retrieved the line and change lures that had an immediate effect. The rachet on the reel broke and caused an overwind and the fish snapped the line. After a quick reset we were into the tuna again... result... tuna for the next few days.
We motored through the night and this morning the breeze filled in and we are under sail again. It's been light but it is slowly building and we are now up to 5-6 knots boat speed. This should hold for the next day maybe a little lighter tomorrow before it builds over the next few days. We are slowly heading south again so that when the blow arrives over the weekend from the SE we will be far enough south to keep the wind aft of the beam. The gribs say 25Kn+ so we should have some fun and some waves to go with it. So for now we will enjoy the lovely sailing we are having.

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Wednesday, August 17, 2011

On route to Tonga

Colin and Sandy Cruising with Papillon
On route to Tonga
23h00 UTC 17 August
Course: 269°
Distance covered last 24hrs until 22h00 GMT: 140 nm
Distance to Tonga: 1038nm
Position 15°26' S 156°48' W
All's well on board.

The winds so far have been good. We have had some rain but so far all is going well. We are slowly getting back into passage mode. We hope to get to Tonga by next week Tuesday. We are keeping to a northerly course to stay in the wind and avoid some of the disturbed weather further south. Thursday we will head south as strong winds are due to come through from the SE over the weekend and we do not want to then be too far north.
We received some sad news on the radio schedule this morning. Our very good friends on the yacht Riri went onto the reef at Palmerston Island(Cook Islands) at 03h00 and the boat has been lost. Frank and Gail are fortunately okay. There are other yachts there at the moment and they are trying to salvage what they can from the yacht. At this stage we have no more info.

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Monday, August 15, 2011

Bora Bora to Tonga

After a wonderful week in Bora Bora the wind has returned and it is time to move on. We have really enjoyed our stay in Bora Bora. We were in a very pretty anchorage in crystal clear water on the west side of the island. From here we used the dinghy to tour around. We have a long haul ahead with light winds predicted so we will head north first to where the winds should be a little more consistant.
It is 1300nm to Tonga and so we should be there in 12-15 days. We will do the usual updates as we go.

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Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Raiatea

On Sunday morning 24/7 we left for Raiatea. It was an overnight passage of 130nm. The wind in the shadow of Tahiti was very light, but once clear of it we had a good broad reach all the way to Raiatea. We entered through the reef on the west side. The island is beautiful and we are enjoying all the bays. The village is small but has good shops and a lovely fresh produce market. Our wind generator has packed up so it is in for repairs. So for now we will take a look around some more bays until it is sorted out. We hope to leave here and get to Bora Bora by the weekend. Some time next week we will leave for Tonga.

Tahiti

Tahiti wascovered with the clouds as we arrive early in the morning. The east side of the island is windy and wet and fortunately the town and marina are on the other side. This is the trade wind side.
Tahiti has been fun and as it was their time for celebrations so there was a lot to see. The island itself is a busy place compared to all the other little islands that we have been to. The anchorage was also busy and deep which meant that you had all your chain out with lots of boats very close to you. One evening a wind came up and many boats had problems with their holding. We fortunately held fast as there is nothing worse than trying to anchor in a very crowded deep anchorage in the dark. The sun sets in the west over the island of Moorea that always formed a lovely backdrop to the anchorage.

The town had shops were you could find anything you wanted but all very expensive. Near the marina we have a lovely large supermarket that made getting foodstuffs easy and downtown there is a super fresh produce market. All around the streets there are stalls as well as shops that are selling pearls. I guess that out on the smaller islands is the place to get them as there are not as many tourists to inflate the prices.

Most of the women dress beautifully and they all love their hats with real flowers on or else just the flowers on their heads. The flowers are often made up ready to purchase along the roads or in the markets and the scents are absolutely beautiful. The flowers around the market for wearing and as bouquets are so colourful.
All over in the streets  you find groups playing local and traditional music so there is always a good buzz around town.

We took a bus and travelled south of the marina as far as it would go to see some of the island. We went with the folk from Gabber and Promise and had a wonderful day stopping at the cultural museum on the way back. We had lunch on the beach at a little restaurant where we sat watching the surfers try their luck. At the pass that we go through they have boats that take the surfers out there and ride the big waves.... not much room for error as the coral is never too far from the front of the wave. The idea is to surf the wave and follow the break till it ends at the pass were the water gets deep again ... this is fine as long as you do not fall off. In August they have one of the world large wave competitions here.

On Bastille day we went to the Polynesian games held on the grounds of the museum were they have stone lifting... up to 160kg. The time starts as soon as the competitor lifts the stone clear of the ground and stops once he has the stone on his shoulder and has his left arm outstretched ... in the 100kg division the time winning time was 2.44sec.

The other section that we enjoyed was the throwing of spears/javelins at a coconut at the top of a flagpole. Each competitor has 10 spears and they have a set time for all of them to throw their spears at the same time. They do this a few times and then see who got the most spears into the coconut. There would be over twenty spears in the coconut at the end of each section. At the end they had a team section won by a local team. Many of the teams come in from the surrounding islands. All the participants in all of the events dress in tradition dress and the activities are interspersed with Tahitian dances.
Well time to let the hair down and its weekend so many head for the shallows of the reef where floating restaurants, bars etc. park up and the locals arrive in boats and bits to swim and party. It is shallow so people just stand in the water thats waste deep. some play games like volleball. its just one big party.